Monday, October 9, 2017

Sophia Webster Spring 2018



Without fail I eagerly anticipate what Sophia Webster will do next. The accessory designer's career has gone from strength to strength, with the opening of her boutique on Mount Street following a grant from the British Fashion Council in collaboration with Vogue Fashion Fund in March, 2016. If we step into the way back machine and visit Webster's Spring 2014 collection at London Fashion Week four years ago, the theme of the presentation is very similar but over the past four years she's really developed and grown. Like previous collections, her presentation consisted of a surreal installation featuring sprite like creatures among a bed of flowers and dandelions. Although this theme has previously been explored by Webster, the tones are much more muted and the presentation lacks the underground party vibe we've seen in the past. One possible explanation is that motherhood has changed Sophia Webster's aesthetic. While I hate reducing women down to the arbitrary labels of mothers, virgins or whores she spoke last season about the influence of Frozen and other pop culture consumer by her then two-year-old daughter and its influences on her creative process. It would therefore seem naive to discount this narrative and the differences in this collection when compared to her earlier body of work. 


As one would expect, there are the usual beaded silk purses with witty one-liners with polished wooden handles, the perfect clutch accompanying the most stunning pair of wooden clogs. Deep down, I'm a Man Repeller at heart, and there are very few things in this world men hate more than a pair of wooden clogs. These aren't your normal pair of sandals, no, no there's rose gold accents and an acrylic block wedged between the heel hiding the silhouette of a fairy. As per usual, Sophia Webster serves us all the things little girls and women in their thirties dream of. Her pieces live up to the expectations we all have from Cinderella's glass slipper on the transformative power of a good pair of shoes (and the right purse too!) The biggest surprise though came from a generously big tote bag with canvas woven handle and scraps of ribbons knotted and twisted into various abstract shapes and forms. Since stumbling across a stash of colourful ribbons I've had ideas about decorating denim jackets and bodysuits, with this tote a continuation of the same theme. It's electric when one of your favourite designers seems to read your mind and creates something in parallel with your own thoughts and ideas.

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