It’s hard to believe it’s been over three years since Molly Goddard entered London Fashion scene floating on a cloud of tulle. Her graduate collection took inspiration from her christening gown, made from hand-smocked tulle with the pattern blown up to gargantuan proportions and reimagined in pastel tones. Since then we’ve watched Goddard’s girls grow up; they’ve partied at their sweet sixteenth and taking part in a life drawing class, complete with naked middle-aged man. It’s been a wild ride, and during that time her dresses have become not only the stuff of fairy tales, but the cool girl’s answer to the conventional princess dress. As a matter of fact, Agyness Deyn is a fan and decided to wear the most gorgeous dress by Molly Goddard on the most special occasion, her wedding day. Spring 2018 marked a departure from the conventionally pretty gowns, opening with Edie Campbell carrying wine glass in one hand, cigarette in the other dressed in a floor-length dress in white paired with battered Frye boots. Like the girl herself, the dress wasn’t perfect and a little off-centre with the empire waist slightly off-kilter.
While I love the authenticity and imperfection of Goddard’s creations, there was also a bit more substance to this particular collection. The child-like silhouettes were still there, but under a different guise, rendered in heavy cotton alongside the signature tulle. Draped dresses in some instances were also paired with pinstripe cotton, and structured blazers shining like satin jewels. In Goddard’s own words, “I wanted to do something a bit more grown-up”. In spite of growing up, the unabashedly naughty attitude of Goddard’s girls was infectious, with vampy antics on the runway, including models twirling on white plinths to the whoops and cries of the audience. It can be incredibly difficult for a designer to stand out during Fashion Month with literally hundreds of shows taking place throughout September, but few can create a frock quite like Molly Goddard. This season she perfected the body-con party frock, proving those epic tulle dresses more akin to frothy concoctions or layered cake worked well as miniature versions.