Sunday, September 24, 2017
Marco de Vincenzo Spring 2016
So few designers are able to hold my attention during Milan Fashion Week. And it’s not that the clothes aren’t good, it’s just that they just don’t speak to me in my current stage of life. I’m still an eccentric millennial, seeking that statement shoe or great jacket that will serve me well into my thirties, forties and beyond. While many women would hardly consider the creations of Marco de Vincenzo to fit the bill, I could not disagree more. The clothes made by this Italian are like fireworks in one sense- dazzling compositions of colour, pattern and texture, but they tend to linger, living both in our memory and for the lucky few, in closets too. There was so much to love about Spring 2016, including but not limited to the metallic leather, pleated lurex and the oddball sunglasses- an accessory which seemed to be straight out of The Wizard of Oz. The real statement were the fringed crepe georgette, embellishing everything from coats to flared trousers, t-shirts to tunics giving everything an otherworldly vibe, somehow still bearing resemblance to fur and feathers.
Although the texture in of itself made for a dazzling spectacle, there was colour too. The movement of the clothes down the runway almost creates the illusion of particles of colour physically vibrating right before your very eyes. “It’s all about following my instinct for color,” de Vincenzo said backstage. It’s that very daring and bravado which has de Vincenzo tipped as a future pillar within the Italian fashion industry, and mainstay on the Milan Fashion Week roster. You won’t find a moodboard as the starting point for a collection either, with the designer (who sometimes moonlights for Fendi) adding a collection rarely starts without a fabric swatch in his hands. Since early runway shows, Marco de Vincenzo has celebrated texture by use of embellishment and up until this point in his career, all inspiration seemed to point to Rome. However, a trip to Japan preceding the creation of Spring 2016 has resulted in silken kimono fabrics incorporated into a handful of coats, as well as the distinct red disc of the Japanese flag, and silhouette of Mt. Fuji appearing on various tops.
Another highlight and surprise hidden within the collection were the cocktail dresses- a throwback to the 90s and something one would expect from Versace or possibly Jean Paul Gautier. The underwire from a bra was inserted into the cocktail dress, acting to separate one fabric from another. While some consider the move genius and bold, others weren’t convinced. There is something to be said about the daring of this particular designer, and an eye for combining colour, pattern and texture to either highlight or obscure the female figure. The optical illusion was accentuated when coupled with lace fabric, transforming what would normally be a rather petite model into a more curvy woman, rocking what looked like a B cup. Similar to contouring, I’ve convinced myself that wizards are real, and that they simply harness and shape light to bend to their will. Naturally, eveningwear has normally received the lion’s share of the accolades when it comes to reviews, however a metallic jacket, rainbow collared blouse and lilac pencil skirt are the unsung heroes of the collection. De Vincenzo is normally quite brazen when it comes to powerclashing, a term coined in girls and referring to mismatched patterns and as per usual, for the Italian it’s paid off.