Saturday, August 5, 2017
Marques Almeida Fall 2017
Within recent years, Marques Almeida has garnered an unparalleled following including but not limited to androgynous hipsters, outcasts and fashion editors alike who fawn over bold prints, silk, denim and obscured proportions. In her commentary of the Fall 2017 collection online Vogue editor Chioma Nnadi praised Marques ' Almeida designers Paulo Almeida and Marta Marques for the levels of diversity on the runway. However, digging through my own blog archive I rediscovered their Spring 2012 campaign featuring ragged white denim and a pair of size zero models with porcelain skin, one a blond the other a brunette. So in response to the statement, 'For Paulo Almeida and Marta Marques, the idea of inclusion comes as second nature and informs pretty much everything they do.' I for one could not disagree more. Yes the brand is now carefully curated and they've cultivated and encouraged many women of different shapes and sizes to participate in this thing we call the fashion industry. However, it would be naive to dismiss the economics behind decisions such as a diverse casting, and while the alternative explanation is that they have since seen the error of their ways and will now dedicate their lives to combating the inequality of traditional western beauty standards, but I'm not buying it.
[I pause and sip a piping hot cup of green tea, and eventually calm the proverbial down].
I don't normally start a fashion review with a rant, however I cannot stand when paid and professional journalists in 2017 are unable to support their statements with evidence. Perhaps it's my research-minded brain working in overdrive, but honestly I am sick and tired of untruths worming their way into what were once reputable sources. Criticisms of Chioma Nnadi aside, the Fall 2017 collection was a complete and utter joy. The clothes are a disjointed mish mash, carefully thrown together to create something cohesive and more importantly, stylish. Checkerboard, stripes, polka dots and the abstract all took their place alongside statement boots, collapsible purses and dangly earrings. I wish to be back in Melbourne as a teenager, rummaging through racks and racks at my local thrift store trying desperately to replicate these looks using nothing more than recycled clothes and perhaps the occasional safety pin. While these dreams aren't too far away from becoming a reality, I firmly believe when you love something you should try wherever possible to support the artists and their team who worked tirelessly to create it. Hand-painting stripes onto a pair of cheap second hand boots is one thing, being able to brag their Marques Almeida is another.