Sunday, April 16, 2017
Erdem Fall 2017
The meeting of two women bonded through family ties- this is where Erdem Moralioglu turned to for inspiration for Fall 2017. The Canadian-born designer took inspiration from his heritage, Turkish on his father’s side and English on his mother’s and generated a collection evoked by a conversation between his two grandmothers. Being biracial myself, at times trying to resolve and better understand one’s identity can become an all-consuming task but here the maestro has focused all his energy on creating something beautiful. A rich kaleidoscope of fabrics and melange of different prints helped shape the reinterpretation of Turkish Ottoman fashion, marrying it with British Victorian sensibilities. The fabrics were rich, the colours even richer with floor-length dresses with long flared sleeves and high collars made from satins, vibrant florals and plush velvets in mustards and rose paired. Brocade featured heavily, creating the season’s most enviable series of long jackets, worn with Ottoman belted layers and trousers made in matching brocades. They were second only to the impressive fur coats featuring crystal appliques.
Set in what Suzy Menkes described as a ‘raw room’ featuring the dust cover sheets thrown over a stuffed bear and chandeliers with an upturned piano in the corner, the collection was as much about print as it was faded glamor. The chaotic furniture in its own way perfectly complemented the balloon sleeves, accentuated shoulders and pristine white ruffled dresses worn over embroidered and embellished transparent slips. In contrast, long pastel lace gowns seemed more fitting dotted along the idyllic English countryside. Whatever the case, it all seems to fit within the poetic, romantic and at times, slightly gothic vintage aesthetic several designers, including Erdem have sought to explore this season (is it the Gucci effect?). The trend plays to Erdem’s strengths, craftsmanship, femininity but the devil is in the detail. This season also had its own selection of matching footwear, from platform sandals, open ribbon laced boots, platform boots to pointed toe slippers. The man repeller in me wants to try them all on for size (and let’s be honest, keep all the shoes including the ones I can’t walk in).
It wasn’t all muted towns and fancy lacework, although I must admit it too has taken on its own exotic and glamorous connotations since seeing this collection. The presentation ended on a high, with sequined balloon sleeve ball gowns making their entrance and within a flash of sequins it was all over. Because being a grandmother does not make one except from events on the social calendar and no matter the age, style is style and honestly who doesn’t love a big old sparkly dress and having a boogie late into the night?
*Photos 1-26 shot by Luca Tombolini via Vogue, 27-32 by Portia Hunt for Purple and 33-43 shot by Ambra Vernuccio for The Upcoming.