Wednesday, April 12, 2017

Alice Archer Fall 2017

Emerging designer Alice Archer is obsessed with flowers, and doesn’t hide it either. Spending her childhood in the idyllic countryside of Surrey she moved to London and studied at Central Saint Martins, followed by a stint at Goldsmiths College of Art. It was in 2013 she completed her MA at the Royal College of Arts in textiles and was whisked away to Antwerp where she worked as an embroidery designer at Dries van Noten. Since launching her own label Archer has been featured by the New York Times 'T' Magazine, The Telegraph and the Business of Fashion and spotted on the likes of Suzy Menkes, Susie Bubble, Pandora Sykes and Mrs B.  Archer has continued to push the fashion boundaries, combining embroidery and digital print with this season’s ready-to-wear collection inspired by Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki, and his flower series. The dramatic silhouettes, silk kimonos, mom jeans and satin pink-stained lips were all reminiscent of Jemima Kirke's character on Girls, Jessa.

 With a palette adapted from delicate peonies, dramatic flashes of fuchsia, emerald green and dark reds gave the impression of flowers blooming in three-dimensions, helped along by metallic threads adding shine to each petal. Brogues in matching pink and pastel tones were paired with highly decorative jeans fused the opulent with the gentile. Striking a balance between delicate hand embroidery overprinting carefully placed patterns is something Archer developed from her London studio and a technique she continues to refine each season, with last season’s collection a foray into marine life. Despite the firm emphasis on colour, the standout piece from the collection was a Victorian inspired gown featuring full and frilly skirt made from ivory tulle, a high-neck and stunning flowers contoured across the body. Celebrating the beauty of nature and as grandiose as Severin Rosen’s ‘Flowers and Fruits’ still life series, Archer’s Fall 2017 collection was a breath of fresh air at London Fashion Week, serving as a more modern interpretation of the traditional English rose.

*Photos 1-6 shot by Paolo Steve for Jungle Magazine, 7-16 via WWD and 17-19 shot by Filippo L'Astorina for The Upcoming.

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