Friday, March 3, 2017

Charlotte Olympia Fall 2017

The vintage style cinema ticket was just a hint of what to expect for Charlotte Olympia’s Fall 2017 presentation on Accessories Sunday at London Fashion Week. The theatrical affair had its very own feature length presentation, cleverly titled ‘An Accessory To Murder’, a tongue-in-cheek thriller starring newspaper printed booties, leopard print purse and killer heels. Directed by Sophie Edelstein the film premiered at the Curzon in Mayfair, following the film’s credits Brazilian socialite-turned-designer Charlotte Dellal took to the stage alongside her cast for their bows, wearing pearl encrusted courts and glittering stilettos. I was in awe of Molly Goddard's life-drawing class but hats off to Charlotte Olympia. Not only has she pushed the envelope in terms of what a presentation at London Fashion Week looks like, her murder mystery is also available to watch online. I myself enjoy watching Poirot or Miss Marple after a long day at work, curled up on the couch with a glass of wine in hand but I can admit the characters lack distinct personal style. A murder mystery with tasteful shoes and bags? I’m in.

In the style of an Agatha Christie, Kitty, Pandora and Dolly (characters who share their namesake with Charlotte Olympia shoe designs and clutches) find themselves caught in a web of high heels, beautiful women, leopard print and murder. Their suspects? A Jane Doe wearing Mary Janes, a killer in kitten heels and ballet flats (used to tiptoe from the scene of the crime for a silent and utterly stylish getaway). Taking inspiration from onscreen legends Barbara Stanwyck, Rita Hayworth and Lauren Bacall the collection features plenty of monochromatic designs with dramatic flashes of fuchsia delivering a modern reinterpretation of the classic 1940s silhouette. Although the presentation was unconventional it follows in the same vein as whimsical dress-maker and designer Molly Goddard who a few seasons ago hosted a life-drawing class complete with butt-naked bald man. The spectacular shows and creativity of the designers showcased at London Fashion Week is one of the biggest reasons why I personally view the event as the highlight of the fashion calendar.

The whodunit style presentation played to Dellal’s strengths and her penchant for all things inspired by the silver screen, ‘I’ve always been into film noir,” said the designer. “My brand comes from that silver screen era — I grew up watching those movies. Her obsession with all things forties is obvious when seeing the boots which arguably stole the show (aside from the designers cameo in the film): knee-high and designer in collaboration with artist Poppy Chancellor, a glamorous woman smokes a cigarette. It took inspiration straight from vintage movie posters of the same genre from a bygone era. Other highlights include a pair of statement pumps emblazoned with “To Have and Have Not” iconic line delivered by Lauren Bacall “You know how to whistle, don’t you?”. Honorable mentions to the houndstooth lace-up heels with heart details and Perspex brogues complementing the detective’s raincoat. If you yourself are trying to solve one of life’s greatest mysteries i.e. what should I wear tomorrow/ next week/ next month? – a clue might be to inspect one Charlotte Olympia. 

1 & 12 via Charlotte Olympia, 2 & 13-24 via Evening Standard, 3 & 4 via Footwear News, 5-11 via The Upcoming.

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