Clio Peppiatt’s Fall/Winter collection for 2017 was a contemporary take on the hardships of searching for one’s true love, inspired by star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, millennials searched through love in the digital age using apps and new technology. Entitled ‘Love Rat’, Peppiatt’s latest offering is an exploration of digital dating and the skepticism and anticipation it often breeds as one tries to search for their hypothetical prince charming. The collection itself is very much a meditation on the differences between ever-lasting love, and fleeting desire packaged neatly in glittery concoctions, embellishment and delicious furs, all with an urban punk aesthetic. When quizzed on her personal opinion of dating apps, Clio had this to say: “I’m undecided. They’re fun and exciting but I think it’s funny how finding love has almost been turned into a game with dating apps, I think that makes it hard to take them too seriously.” Personally, I couldn’t agree more but if I could match with any of Peppiatt’s designs, I’d definitely swipe right.
The whole scenario played on the idea of coming of age, through those seminal moments in one’s adolescence, like school night discos and customizing one’s uniform in an act of rebellion for school trips. Rather than strut down the catwalk, models danced like there was no tomorrow, or they had just been let loose after finishing their final school examinations. Whatever the case, they seemed to be part of some exclusive girl gang I desperately wanted to be a part of. Girls sported dewy eyeshadow in pastel tones, electrifying blue lashes and permanent wavy curls (the infamous 90s perm this fashion blogger is too young to remember). Those beauty looks, as well as the accompanying 80s inspired pastel hair created lovesick characters, bright eyed and optimist about dating in the 21st century.
Presented at RSA House, Peppiatt took full advantage of the underground venue, transforming the space into the perfect underground disco fit for a millennial with 90s garage soundtrack, old TVs and disco balls. The wall of televisions each played on loop a short film, capturing the experience of a millennial woman awaiting her perfect match. Although the narrative portrayed women searching for some kind of Romeo, Peppiatt’s girls were more than happy to laugh and share a drink with friends (probably swapping nightmare dating stories and laughing at dating profiles on Tinder). Around them, on the walls and scrunched up on the floor were cautionary flyers, urging women to beware the dreaded love rat. Last season the designer took inspiration from Formula One and fast racy women; the season before was an homage to visionary director Wes Anderson’s The Grand Budapest Hotel, complete with canape carrying lobby boy. Fall 2017 has the same intensity as previous collections, with all the same candor, fun and attitude that has become synonymous with Clio Peppiatt as a brand.
Luscious furs came in dreamy pastel colors, varying from a baby pink hooded faux fur coat with blue star pattern to the more outlandish blue, black and grey stole with a flame print. Crushed velvet slips and silken bell sleeve pajamas decorated with intricate embroidery were paired with bedazzled tights by dbleudazzled and jewellery by Jiwinaia, a Korean designer now based in Milan and alumni of Central Saint Martins. Floaty skirts featuring cartoon graphics were complemented by fishnet stockings and embroidered T-shirts and sweatshirts carrying this season’s logo of the illustrative rat. Crop tops and denim were made glamorous with the addition of bejeweled embellishment, and it didn’t stop there. Last season we saw the scintillating sheer bedazzled bodysuit, on par with Britney Spears in the music video clip for ‘Toxic’, whereas this season’s show-stopper was a black transparent chiffon dress, adorned in gold glitter stars and embroidered crescent moon. Just as lovely was the pale pink floor length dress, worn with a mesh leotard underneath and mustard yellow faux fur coat over the top. Brimming full of sparkly clothes for the magpie in all of us, Peppiatt’s glittery designs style ethos offers a modern take on femininity, made casual by the inclusion of Converse sneakers with loosely hung clothes and color, prints and texture layered and clashed in spectacular fashion.
Images: 1-11 shot by Ashley Smith via The Upcoming, 12 via Clio Peppiatt instagram, 13 via Jungle Magazine, 14- via gal-dem and 14- 28 and 28-31 via Hunger Magazine and 40 via Hook Magazine.