Tuesday, January 31, 2017

Roberta Einer Spring 2017

**Today’s runway review reimagines Roberta Einer’s Spring 2017 collection as a short story, set in Miami in the 1980s. Einer drew inspiration from what Bianca Jagger and Janice Dickinson might wear by the pool at a grand Miami Beach hotel. The events described in this story are fictitious. 

The sun sinks below the horizon, the last rays of sun kissing the sand on Miami Beach. It’s a hot night, and on Ocean Drive, things are just starting to heat up. You check your look in the mirror, applying the last few touches of soft peach-coloured eyeshadow and blush while chunky hoop earrings sway from your ear lobes. 

There’s a party at the grand Miami Beach hotel, and rumour has it, some of LA’s most beautiful people are going to be there. It’s the perfect time to wear that slinky slip dress, the one with black lace spaghetti straps made from a sheer floral fabric. The best thing about this dress though is the pastel embellishment, arranged like strokes of a paintbrush. On a night this hot, there’s only one so many shoes you could wear, deciding on your tried and true black mules. Hopefully your feet won’t be too sore tomorrow after tonight’s adventure. On the way out the door, you decide to grab your textured varsity jacket. The forest green vinyl sleeves contrast nicely against the panels on the back decorated in a tropical-themed embroidery. It’s a last minute decision, but lately a lot of sleazy guys have been cosying up to you at parties, purring ‘baby girl’ in your ear. A girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do- there’s nothing whimsical or apologetic about tonight’s look, instead it’s all about femininity and power. 

When you finally step inside the room is packed, the walls decorated in pastel green, blue, pink and neon hues typical of Miami, all offset with black. Across the crowded room, you catch a glimpse of the actress Bianca Jagger in a brushed blue velvet jumpsuit with a deep V neck and hoop earrings. To her left you see supermodel Janice Dickinson wearing a striped black and white halter top with a knee-length crocheted pencil skirt. You spot some other supermodels wearing tight-and-tiny dresses, all featuring stunning embellishment resulting in a wondrous clash of colour, print and graphics. Everything from tweed to silk, covered in sequins and ample appliques. Many of the outfits also share an added touch of sparkle. Could it be that they're all here on holiday? Despite the sweltering heat, they all look so refined and beautiful, but there's no doubt these women are having a good time.

Candy-coloured neon drinks in tall glasses adorned with fresh fruit filter through the room, and as quickly as you can, you grab one from a platter held by a passing waiter. From that first sip, the sweet and sugary cocktail is intoxicating and everything in the room- the colour, music and people seem even more loud. You catch glimpses of the same seaside colour palette used to reinvent the city’s Art Deco architecture on the clothes of everyone in the room.

You wander to the courtyard area, where at the centre an enormous pool filled with crystal clear bright blue water stretches across the length of the outdoor space. From the nearby streets everything glows, bathed in the glow of a pink neon light. On either side of the pool, white trellises form part of two small gardens, each filled with flowers and hanging plants. It reminds you a little bit of the botanical gardens in Miami, but they're nowhere near as interesting as the clothes. Outside everyone's outfits are even more flashy than you dreamed they’d be. A sudden flash and the sound of a camera shutter draws your eye to two girls posing for a photo in front of the garden to your left, one wearing a bomber jacket dusted in thousands of twinkling crystals. It’s so beautiful you can hardly believe your eyes, the combination of crystals, pearls and glitter arranged over crochet and lace is unlike anything you’ve ever seen before. Everything about it is so intricate and glamorous, it must have been made by an expert in couture techniques.

There’s something unmistakably European about this party, despite the in-your-face use of colour, particularly pink and turquoise which is just so characteristic of the Dirty South. Some girls have been brave enough to wear hooded tops made from what looks like a PVC fabric and silk blend, featuring a zipper to the neckline. You’ve never seen anything like it before, and love the hip hop reference but on a night like tonight, it can’t be too comfortable either. From afar, some girls are wearing bikinis under robe-like jackets. You feel a little bit jealous, the robe is a soft dusty pink made from velvet, they look so comfortable. Not so far away you spy laser cut leather patches on black and stripe denim layered over petite dresses with scalloped. The contrast between soft-coloured stripes and the neon tones are electric, but nowhere as bright as the uber-glamorous Miami vice inspired motifs. Everywhere around you there’s florals, hummingbird and fingernail prints inspired by pop-art made all the more kitsch by the liberal use of glitter. The highly embellished clothes and intricate embroidery are part of the reason why you love the Miami nightlife so much. 

 “Watch out!” You start to turn around but it’s already too late. 

A figure pushes past, with enough force to cause you to lose your balance. Before you can do anything you fall on your back into the pristine, cool turquoise water of the grand Miami Beach hotel. 

*Images 1-32 via Vogue.com and 33-57 via WWD