Friday, September 30, 2016

Out to stud

Wild neon colours have once again stolen my heart, made all the more fierce by Discount Universe who created some of the most amazing biker jackets covered in tonnes of metal studs. Once again, the ladies at DU have proved to be ahead of the curve, with fashion heavy weights Marc Jacobs as well as new kid on the block Molly Goddard taking inspiration from raves for their Spring 2017 collections.

Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Clio Peppiatt Spring 2017

British designer Clio Peppiatt's latest offering is a scintillating feast for the eyes, inspired by the concept of 'fast women' and combining it with aesthetics inspired by formula one racing. Peppiatt started London Fashion Week with a band, delivering yet another immersive experience transforming a small showroom into the club house of a drag racing girl gang. Think Charlie's Angels on dirt bikes, minus the gaffe metallics typical of the early 00's. It's the kind of collection that typifies third-wave feminism, taking the literary notion of the femme fatale and totally removing the male gaze. While some would consider the barely-there rhinestone spangled bodysuit as exhibitionism rather than empowerment, make no mistake- this is a collection made by women, for women. Rivalling the naked bodysuit worn by pop princess Britney Spears in the music video for Toxic, it's easy to see why Peppiatt has attracted the attention of Charli XCX, designing many of her costumes for her 2015 American tour

Plexiglass necklaces and earrings featuring more of Peppiatt's hand-drawn designs were made in collaboration with British accessory label Tatty Devine. It follows the success of last season's collection, with mini luggage cases to motel keys produced by the UK based company. After the conclusion of the Spring 2017 presentation, Tatty Devine announced on their blog and Instagram the chance to win the panther necklace which featured in the show, as well as the regular retail price of the item. Hopefully this means pieces from this collection will go into mass production and become commercially available within the next six months. Speaking of collaborations and rather excitingly Skinnydip London have produced a series of limited edition phone cases and patches featuring motifs from the collection, which are available to buy online. Such moves strike a balance between the current model of the fashion industry, and keeping up with the insatiable appetites of fashion-crazed audiences.

Like previous collections, Spring 2017 has a heavy emphasis on detailed embroidery turned applique and embellishment, but is distinctly more badass. This season illustrations adorned midi dresses and denim biker jackets, featuring playfully feminine designs of the designers’ own making. These were inspired by motorcycle gangs, the female body (a reoccuring theme in Peppiatt's work) race car drivers and punk girl bands like The Runaways and Bikini Kill. The aforementioned denim jacket, Clio’s personal favourite from the collection has a silhouette inspired by 1970s mens workwear, but on closer inspection is covered with detailed embroiders and beaded race car patches. Motifs such as panthers, flaming typography and dice cover everything from leather bustiers, slogan t-shirts to star-embroidered flares trousers. There's a real sense of luxury instilled through the more dressy pieces worn with bejeweled tights and lace-up heels amid the prop motorbikes and checked flags.

Trend Report gothic style

Everyone has a dark side, but at London and New York Fashion Week some designers went full gothic romantic on the runway. At Rodarte we saw the talented sisters turn their hand to gothic victorian dresses adorned in delicate lace work and embellishment, worn with knee high leather boots and delicate jewels. British designer Simone Rocha favored more demonic styles, pairing her designs with satin gloves, sheer tights and black brogues. Rocha also created asymmetric gothic jackets, somewhat reminiscent of Comme Des Garcons. It’s a welcome change from the pop tones and florals that many designers include within their spring collections, with movement emphasized by many of these dresses. Gothic dresses are also perfect for fall, and easy to wear with layers- you can either dress them up with a pair of kitten heels or wear them under warm coats and jackets. No. 21 took the trend to the next level, creating punk-inspired a gothic lolita dress cinched at the waist with ruffles and a wisps of sheer for the skirt. Depending on how you intend to style gothic clothes will really change the look, elevating it to gothic romantic opulence or a fresh twist on the classic trend. If elegance is more your forte, follow in Rodarte's lead and wear fine jewellery, or like Simone Rocha, with bold statement earrings.