It's impossible to describe Ryan Lo's eponymous label without mentioning in the same breath femininity, as the clothes are often bathed in pastel tones. Unlike the kinderwhore aesthetic pioneered by Hole singer Courtney Love, Ryan Lo does not subvert frills, bows or the colour pink but artfully separates traditionally feminine motifs from notions of frailty. For anyone who has studied literature and in particular the Gothic romantic poems of Wordsworth and John Keates, separating the two can prove quite difficult but as I am often quick to point out it's 2016. If we can't reconcile the idea that a woman can dress in pink frilly outfits festooned with pleats and be a total badass simultaneous to that, then what are we doing? The same should be said for men who also wear chandelier earrings, pink bow choker necklaces and pink socks with silver high heels. As some of you might already be aware, Ryan Lo champions the aesthetic from his womenswear collections in his everyday life. While this holistic approach might be overwhelming for some, it gives Lo another level of insight into the ease with which his designs can be worn.
Regrettably, I've been experiencing writer's block as of late when it comes to critical analysis of runway collections simply due to a lack of energy at the end of the day. One attractive solution would be to sacrifice sleep, but, given that I drive to work on a daily basis this too seems fraught with danger. Hypotheticals aside, the ease with which I am able to recognise parallels between fashion collections and works of fiction, particularly films remains is as sharp as ever. Interspersed between photographs taken during the Spring 2016 presentation are various photographs taken for Rookie Mag, as well as stills from Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette and Pretty in Pink. Occasionally, amid the jacquard coats and ruffles were pops of colours and bright town houses, within the same universe as the work of Disney animator and artist Mary Blair. Try as I may, dreamy romanticism and the illustrations didn't quite fit together but the beauty of each and harmony between them within this collection is worth mentioning. Each season I continue to be impressed at the ease with which Lo is able to articulate himself and the many brilliant ideas he uses to blow us away.
4- Tavi Gevinson and Petra Collins. 5, 13, 14- Marie Antoinette (2005). 8- Rookie Mag event. 10- Pretty in Pink (1986). 11, 17- Hometown Heroes shot by Petra Collins for Rookie Mag.