Saturday, February 13, 2016

Michael Kors Pre-Fall 2016




 Warning! I am writing this while sipping beer on an empty stomach. Although I am still slightly inebriated, there is the slight exaggeration of someone who is simultaneously sleepy and excited at the same time (I am a weird drunk). Tally ho! OK, admittedly I don't know that much about Michael Kors other than what I can find on Wikipedia, which is basically everything, but knowing how old the designer is, where they grew up and the occupation of their parents gives you very little insight into a body of work FACT. Apparently the brand is also very popular among teen girls, unknown demographic in an unnamed 2015 survey. That sounds legitimate. As someone from Australia, Pre-Fall is a very strange beast altogether including a mix of clothing which could be worn in Winter and dresses suitable for our fall. Geographically we are somewhat isolated from the context in which these clothes were created, it is therefore up to is to interpret them in new and strange ways (a concept I have been harping on about for a while now).





 There are some women capable of combining cool and chic, probably from an alien civilization fair more evolved than that of us mere earthlings, or possibly from posh boarding schools which they then snuck out of and from there, experienced the world. Tilda Swinton is of course, the alien but were it not for her devotion to androgyny perhaps she would wear some of these pieces? The trousers mainly. The dresses from this collection are very feminine and even the coats suggest the form and figure of a woman. Whereas the pink pleated dresses with unusual cutouts were made for those who don't think they like wearing pink (because it's too girly or whatever) but simply haven't found the right pink clothes which are distinctly unlike that of a giant Barbie doll. 





Aside: you know, the models caught in action displaying the fluidity of the clothes reminds me a lot of the outfit photos I've been taking lately. It's made me realise that these look best when worn with a pointy-toed heel (the kind that make you wish you had one big pointy toe) rather than the rounded clogs and boots I've been prancing around in. Having a high shutter speed is also desirable, as I myself have discovered through a lot of trial and error. It comes as a breath of fresh air and lends itself more towards the world of fashion editorials, rather than rigid look books full of blank-faced models and posing in front of a plain background. Perhaps it was to consciously emulate the walk of models on the runway, but whatever the case it beautifully shows of the feathers on some of the spectacular cocktail dresses and movement within those wide-legged pants. It also conveys that the women Kors is dressing is preferably a New Yorker and always on the move- both physically and metaphorically.





 Despite it being a Pre-Fall collection, there were A LOT of bare legs which has more to do with sex appeal and dressing to attract a man than anything else. Whilst this seems like the MO of Michael Kors he's also collaborated with Leandra Medine the self-titled Man Repeller who promotes women dressing in a way that makes them happy. The two philosophies seem diametrically opposed and whilst the collection itself is somewhat of a grey area it's for the woman to choose whether she self-consciously shows skin to attract a man. Or, if you're anything like me want to wear a jacket from a thrift store or nice vintage piece from etsy and layer layer layer. I'm talking about jeans under a short dress, frumpy boots, maybe a hat, skinny scarf and multitude of brooches. It's not necessarily dressing to look less appealing, but combining happy accidents with a "more is more" frame of thinking. Whether your partner still finds you attractive or not isn't something you should necessarily concentrate on, as long as you're happy.




 All in all I did like this collection, but felt like I wasn't seeing the complete picture, like sensing there is a piece of the puzzle missing when conducting research and unable to find "the missing link". In the fashion world that link is not as well-defined as any scientific theory and generally lacks consensus. However, when analysing this collection as a whole it did become very apparent who Kors is designing his clothes to fit and the very non-nonchalant sexiness of something like a dress with just the right amount of pleats, cutouts and lace. All this is achieved while maintaining a very ladylike silhouette more routed in the 1950s and departing from the 1970s which reigned supreme in the most recent Fall collections. But make no mistake, there is a very modern twist on this collection. The caveat to this is it lacks the magic of a collection which feels very old and very new at the same time. The latter tend not to be as big a commercial success but do make me feel warm and fuzzy inside. 





Photos via Vogue.com

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