Saturday, January 9, 2016
Maison Margiela Spring 2016
"Aliens dress better than you" - I really love to synopsis collections with something quick, snappy and soundbite worthy. Extraterrestrial beings probably will not announce their presence with outlandish hairstyles and silver eyeshadow but wouldn't it be fabulous if they did? At the very least I have some inspiration for next Halloween. And by Halloween I mean the month of October when it becomes slightly more accessible to dress like something from Tim Burton's Mars Attacks! Pop culture references aside, there's still the issue of John Galliano as creative director and welcomed back into the fashion industry despite his anti-Semitic rant in 2011. For those who have perhaps forgotten or unaware of the controversy, I will bring this up whenever reviewing a Maison Margiela collection as long as he remains the creative director. It is important that art and fashion be discussed with regard to their source and we not forgive such faux pas so easily. I love the house, and depressingly find myself enamored with each collection since Galliano was appointed. Reconciliation would mean to either ignore these collections or give them bad reviews, which doesn't present a balanced point of view.
I haven't sought to wear fishnet stockings (and even then, I never did) since somewhere in high school where I went through many sartorial transitions. Since then they have remain ingrained as being misguided in the world of high fashion or connected to woman's sensuality. You can only imagine my joy when discovering that they had been made cool again, such is the power of fashion week. There were some weird and wonderful layering situations going on and I have to say I loved every minute of it. Although slightly impractical, particularly when it's cold and raining, the combinations were imaginative and combat the banalities of sweatpants and Juicy Couture tracksuits. How I despise those Juicy Couture track pants, when people could be dressing closer towards the Utopian society of The Capital. I won't rest until our male talk show hosts are wearing glitter in their eyebrows to match their bright blue, quaffed hair.
I feel like everyone's layering starter pack should include socks of multiple lengths and some different tights. If you still own some jelly sandals you can show off your awesome socks and create the illusion of having more clothes to any unobservant bystander. For those who dropped their transparent shoes like a bad habit, you can also wear a few different skirts in neutral tones at the same time. If you don't do this right you run the risk of looking like a mermaid flopping about on land. If you happen to love mermaids then ta-dah! You found a solution to the problem you never knew you had. Going back to emulating this collection I seriously suggest investing in a silver mid length skirt. This can be something you make yourself, should you ever find material to meet your expectations. Tin foil is a good substitute, rips easily and should not be worn to school/ work instead of pants for obvious reasons. Major issues become less obvious when worn with another skirt over the top with any kind of embellishment you so desire.
Even if you can't afford Margiela, if you were a die hard fan you could still buy foam and form a belt to cinch the waist. I've seen something similar, but applied to the neck rather than the waist achieving similar effect. I'll tell you what is difficult to replicate- those wicked white patent shoes with buckled ankle straps. You can forget trying to find those at Goodwill since they don't seem specific to a certain era and in any case if made from crappy PVC they crack very easily. Maybe they'll make some dupes for the high street but I seriously doubt it since Maison Margiela just seems more obscure and more difficult to imitate. The coats with leopard print lapels seem like more likely candidates, if this were a collection to be copied at all. As I outlined from the start eyeshadow seems like a much more likely starting point and lends itself to those thirteen year olds ~*with a passion for fashion*~ And dusty old windbags such as myself who never learned to apply makeup properly and are free from any constraints. Conversely the ability to use primer correctly would come in handy right about now...
If I had known I could wear a shower cap on my head, outside the hotel room in the name of fashion I would have done it years ago. But seriously you guys, the weird shapes inserted into hair to create all manner of interesting silhouettes has got me thinking of Star Wars of all things. Yes! The new movie is coming out. I know! That's not necessarily something that interests all of you, but wait, hear me out. Upon viewing some choice fashion designer's interpretations of various Star Wars characters it got me all hung up on Queen Amidala looks. Some bright spark thought to insert clear spheres into braids and it got me thinking about inserting more weird things into our hair as long as they don't cause follicle damage. Hair clips are good, but you know what's better? Sparkly baubles for Christmas, eggs for Easter and niche craft supplies when attending art gallery openings. If anything, it's a weird conversation starter and a guarantee that for a brief moment you will be the most interesting person in the room.
If anything this collection made me fall in love with disaffected cool. This is at odds with the hyper-obsessive fangirlism I've been practicing in my day to day life, particularly when approaching science things and cool pairs of shoes. We can't all be Daria Morgendorffer (and for those too afraid to express intense feelings of passion, don't!) but it's also fun to wear a nifty pair of shades and be the coolest person in the room. That's simply something that I cannot achieve within this lifetime so I'll quite happily be a massive dork. All that I ask is that I like everyone else have my moment in the sun of not caring about things and eventually move on. As much as I love sassy attitudes that's not what this collection is about. It's a spring collection unlike any other which removes itself from the cliche floral tones and pastels. Instead there is an icy hue, pastel hair and removal from world of humans which is just so intoxicating.
*Photos via Vogue.com