Thursday, April 30, 2015

I dream of Clio

Wearing: ASOS faux fur coat and skirt, Walter van Beirendonck turtleneck, Sara Sboul buffy muff and Nicholas Kirkwood X Meadham Kirchhoff shoes.

A couple of weeks ago now, during the Easter break Clio Peppiatt launched their new collection and offered a 30% off discount but because of bad timing (I had just bought a Shrimps clutch and there was a lull in work for three weeks) I couldn't buy anything and was super bummed out. Fortunately I still have my Sara Sboul muff and since she collaborated with Clio Peppiatt on her latest range of accessories it seemed fitting that I create an outfit inspired by both these designers. I wanted to wear this with my fluffy fur coat from Asos but wasn't quite sure as to how to go about it. The yellow skirt I'm wearing is a very similar to one sold by CP with two dalmatians on the front which is super lovely. For extra warmth I'm wearing my turtleneck is Walter Van Beirendonck but I'm wearing it backwards so that the muppet on the front doesn't show up on the bottom. Wearing my Meadham Kirchhoff shoes always makes me feel extra glamorous and it seemed fitting.

Wednesday, April 29, 2015

technicolor

Lately I've felt inspired by the illustrations of Mary Blair, a Disney animator as well as the costumes and set design of the Wizard of Oz. While pastel colours have been the uniting theme I've been particularly drawn to the colour green in idealised landscapes and magical kingdoms. Naturally the Pip and Pop installation for designer Romance Was Born's Mushroom Magic collection fits neatly into this category. Even something as simple as a vintage lampshade on a floral wallpaper fits in with this very kitsch aesthetic. I also had to include a photo of one of my favourite bloggers and creatives, Marlena from self-constructed freak who made the pin in her outfit which says 'Earth Sucks'. As if we needed further proof she is actually a queen from outer space sent save us all! Although I've been really happy that it's Winter and I get to wear lots of fluffy faux fur coats I guess subconsciously my mind has been drawn to Spring vibes. It's hard to romanticise fall and winter without snow to look forward but cold weather and precious few hours of sunlight. 

1- Marlena from self-constructed freak, 2 & 3- The Wizard of Oz (1939), 4- Prada Fall 2015 backstage, 5- Pip & Pop for Romance Was Born Mushroom Magic collection, 6- Peter Pan by Disney illustrator Mary Blair, 7- unknown and 8- Shrimps Fall 2015.

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Peter Pilotto Fall 2015





Viewing this collection made me feel like I was experiencing the various townships represented in The Wizard of Oz (1939). I watched the film for the first time with my boyfriend a few weeks ago and was so entranced by the costume designs and how they relate to fashion today. Of course Hamish was totally confused about why I was getting so worked up about it and how I could consider those clothes wearable but he's definitely not into fashion but has forged an identity through the clothes he wears. (To our friends he is easily identifiable and basically wears the same outfit all year round). Given that Dorothy, the Scarecrow, Tin Man and Cowardly Lion only visited a few townships within this universe it's entirely feasible that somewhere, a town exclusively inhabited by women exists and they dress with impeccable taste. I can only hope they wear Nicholas Kirkwood shoes embellished with what reminds me of Jacks (or Knucklebones if you prefer) and wonderfully decorated sweaters and coats. Join me on a journey of discovery within the Peter Pilotto world with pop culture references abound.





Despite the wonderful shoes and the numerous colorways Nicholas Kirkwood created especially for this runway collection, style.com has not featured any closeups of the shoes and I feel so vexed about this. It's no secret that I am a huge Nicholas Kirkwood fan owning three pairs of his shoes (one Meadham Kirchhoff collaboration and one Rodarte) and a pair of Sophia Webster slides (former design assistant to Nicholas Kirkwood). Each shoe is like a piece of artwork and beautifully made- hence why I feel so frustrated there aren't many photographs of them from this runway show online. Before I continue to vent my frustration I should note that Peter Pilotto has collaborated with Nicholas Kirkwood for a number of seasons but this might be my favorite range of heels and boots to date. The introduction of gel or strange shapes always injects a kind of nostalgia, usually springing forth memories of the early 2000s but in this case the 1970s tone is irrefutable. The colors, strange geometric shapes and sporadic suede heels all lead me to the conclusion that while both identities exist within this collection the seventies is stronger.





The star of the show was definitely the fabulous and eccentric knitwear featuring designs akin to weird circuit board motifs or the alien crop circles. Even with the simple use of a few lines, colours and shapes on a plain white background I can conjure up multiple interpretations of the same design. It was definitely more intellectually stimulating than watching various 1970s inspired looks float down the runway (I mean Stevie Nicks is great and we should all aim to be like her but there's only so much suede and black sheer I can take- ya know?) Seeing so many abstract figures forced me to think about how they relate to my life or figures I knew from television and film. There was room for interpretation as well as substance behind motivating Pilotto during the creation of this collection which is always more compelling than predicting what will be the next biggest trend. I'm more concerned with which characters are brave enough to create the collection they want to as well as personal development through personal style. 


The other thing these colours and shapes remind me of are the attractions at Disneyland and to a greater extent Mary Blair's animation style. She was the art director of Peter Pan, Cinderella and Alice in Wonderland, as well as the mastermind who orchestrated "It's a Small World" with scenes designed by Marc Davis and costuming by his wife Alice Davis. Wrap skirts which seem oddly familiar yet untraceable in origin echo this sentiment of a global citizen or alien figure who exists somewhere outside of time itself. Tavi Gevinson said something along these lines about Creatures of the Wind many years ago but I think the same can be said for Peter Pilotto. Things seem both old and new at the same time like a caricature of space travel or special effects from a movie made several decades ago. What is certain that although these shapes are readily familiar there isn't anything else like it available on the market which makes Pilotto so incredibly exciting as a figure in the fashion industry. 

Photos by Marcus Tondo for Indigitalimages.com

Monday, April 27, 2015

Re: Trend talk: Chloe Nour x Uniformed

I was distressed to see in the latest Asos newsletter a white woman wearing an oriental style shirt. It is not a traditional cheongsam, as it is symmetrical but given it's motifs, button closures and collars it is blatantly obvious what it is trying to emulate. Or rather, what culture it is trying to incite and exploit. I'm half Asian and like many this has always made me feel a little impure in my identity but it is genuinely irritating when the same girls who made me feel subordinate then steal something and appropriate that culture. More than that, I am sick and tired of these festival trend reports and images of girls at Coachella beamed across Instagram glorifying something which is unconscionable.

"Hey all, in your latest Trend Talk for Australian customers you feature Chloe Nour, a girl who's not mixed or ethnically Chinese wearing a shirt in the style of a cheongsam. While I acknowledge that what she is wearing is not a traditional item of clothing I do find it upsetting as someone who is biracial that you seem to urge your online community to engage in cultural appropriation and something which is exploitative. You don't identify what she is wearing, and indeed seem to side-step the issue entirely, but the fact that these photos have still come to light is unsettling. 


I ask that you consider  taking these images down, or re-shooting with Chloe Nour in order to maintain that interview and content for readers. Or at the very least do not allow such content to come to light in future. While I do not take any issue with someone who does represent that culture wearing a particular item of clothing (i.e. a Desi women wearing a bindi for example), it is increasingly common that consumers are exploiting culture and religion for commerce. I like many other young woman are alarmed by the practice, and consciously avoid those who do not address it in all its insidious forms. I look forward to reading your response."



edit: here's the response I got:

"
Hello Adele,
Thanks for getting in touch.
Please be rest assured we didn't mean to cause any offence, and thank you for your feedback.

I've now passed this to the relevant team to look into, as we take situations like this very seriously here at ASOS - I'll be back in touch ASAP. In the meantime, I hope you have a lovely day, and if you have any questions, please let me know – I’ll be happy to help.
Best wishes, Lucy"

The original article has since been removed

Saturday, April 25, 2015

Pucker up



Wearing: Walter Van Beirendonck turtleneck, vintage dress and coat and Nike Roshe sneakers.

At first I put some lipstick on to match my sweater but then I realized I was subconsciously mimicking the design on my sweater. So of course I had to do some silly poses and pout in order to match my equally ridiculous outfit. I think I should begin to wear lipstick more often at least when it matches my hair or clothing. In any case I feel much better than I did last week when my hair was super gross and it was negatively affecting my confidence. I got it cut over the weekend at Fur in Fitzroy by Justice my green haired guardian angel and it looks more like when it was first colored. The last time I got a haircut was in August last year so I was long overdue but now I think I should definitely go more often.