Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Molly Goddard Fall 2015

I realised I hadn't finished writing this blog post when Molly Goddard followed me on Instagram and my god I have never felt such a strange combination of both guilt and excitement. The premise for her most recent London Fashion Week presentation was absolutely exceptional featuring life drawing class complete with nude model. Although I think fashion goers were somewhat putt-off or confronted with "the elephant in the room" many appreciated Goddard's cake like designs. Or the playful narrative: Art imitating life imitating art. In a way that theme has dominated editorials and fashion photography within the last six months but very few designers have been willing to tackle the theme in a live show. Or rather no one has been as explicit as Molly Goddard without being overt or gauche. Everything she does has a certain subtlety to it. At a first glance her dresses appear relatively simple and straightforward but on closer inspection it's obvious each is made with meticulously and with care. Tulle panels and ruching were the star of the show but again Goddard was able to reinvent herself and demonstrate new techniques combined with her signature style. 

Last season's the dresses were the embodiment of the spirit of sweet sixteen with the iconic presentation taking place at a deconstructed birthday party. In a way, we as consumers are watching the development of a character in parallel with Molly Goddard's expanding skill set. Her graduate collection was a grownup interpretation of the clothes a baby would be baptised in and her character's are aging at an alarming rate. I suppose this is more interesting as it celebrates the milestone events in a woman's life in a way that allows Goddard to experiment with her signature sheer and tulle creations. I find it fascinating that as a young designer she has taken this approach and progressively works on each collection as a facet of her life and narrative of a greater story. It's a shame that many more designers don't join her on this approach but for certain bands each album is like a part of a greater anthology. In much the same way Goddard works with a certain kind of rare perspective on what the implications of each collection are. Simultaneous to that she is able to create beautiful which are also a commercial success and feed the artistic community nestled in the heart of London.

I love the way Molly installed herself as the art teacher and overseer to this entire performance and she looked as proud as punch. Too rightly of course, given just how bewitching the atmosphere of the room was. On a personal level I always associate art at a high school level with tons of really bad advice and the subjectivity of a portfolio, hence why I avoided it entirely and stuck to studying science. But of course if I could do it all over again I think I'd at least like to apply myself since I have a better idea of what kind of project I'd like to overtake. The black creepers were the perfect shoe to highlight the bottled up teen angst associated with our high school years as well as popular London subcultures which were active right about the time Goddard was a student herself. Like last season each outfit was styled by Goddard's sister Alice hence the use of black nail polish and black rubber bracelets emphasizing the stereotypical art scene. It's the attention to detail which always contributes in my mind to the reputation of a designer at any level. I look forward to her next collection and the concept behind her presentation at London Fashion Week as well as how fashion bloggers style her wonderful dresses.

1-14 from Now Fashion and 15- 25 via.

9 comments:

  1. Amazing outfits.

    Follow me on GFC and/or Instagram ( @hekyma ), I follow back !
    WWW.HEKYMA.COM

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  2. This is amazing. Molly Goddard is one of those few designers that actually look at her work as art as opposed to product, if that makes sense. I really like how she's approached it similarly to the way one plays an art installation for school actually. And the clothes are dreamy x10.

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    1. yes exactly! It's interesting that although she did a collaboration with Asos a few years ago, the dresses had the same material and shape as this collection for fall 2015- she didn't compromise or cheapen the product, if that makes any sense.

      She also did a sweet 16th birthday party installation last season which was 10/10 <3 <3

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  3. Uhh, I saw some of these images at the time but her dresses are just beautiful! The first one is my favourite, but I'm a big fan of all the sheer / tulle dresses. The sheer dresses worn over jumpers is such an interesting look and I love the use of a life drawing class as an intallation. You write about fashion so well - you're much more atriculate than I could ever be!

    Jess (jessthetics.com) xx

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    1. The first look seemed the strongest to me- hence why I wanted to feature it, I loved the floating panels of tulle like hairy little caterpillars. And I always love new ideas on layering, as well as fashion shows.
      I don't know about that but thank you very much for your kind words Jessica <3

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  4. I love all the care and work Molly Goddard's put into the design. I love the first dress and the pink tulle over the striped jumper. The black shoes with it all kind of convey that feeling of angst and anger hiding under outward compliance xoxo

    www.thelittleenigma.blogspot.com

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    1. yes omg! so glad to know I wasn't the only one crushing on the return of creepers paired with this tulle dresses <3

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