Saturday, March 7, 2015

Jeremy Scott Fall 2015



It's finally happened you guys! Jeremy Scott made a collection that wasn't offensive, didn't collaborate with a problematic fave or rip-off someone else's designs. All of that makes me sound highly cynical and don't get me wrong I genuinely like what he creates and find his clothes wearable. But when I can find so many faults in a young designer with so much potential I have to exercise a certain level of skepticism. Honestly I wouldn't be surprised if some kind of wallpaper distributor from came forward with an archive catalog to contest intellectual property. Hopefully this means that Jeremy Scott has turned a new leaf. Enough ranting though, let's discuss the baby doll dresses and amazing colourways seen on the runway for this season. My first whiff of this collection came from Instagram featuring the stunning pain splattered bobs and intoxicatingly thick eyeshadow. Jade Taylor, the senior beauty/ grooming editor at Nylon Mag unofficially previewed some looks backstage and I was hooked in an instant. 





From the small teaser of beauty looks it just got bigger and better with the opening look being just as bold and bright as the final outfit. What I sometimes find frustrating with collections is a disjoint in the story-telling or a lack of cohesion between looks. Or that maybe there is perhaps too much transition involved and little substance to support ideas which still needed time to develop. What I'm alluding to here is the use of filler in runway collections. Fortunately that was never the case with Scott and it truly feels like his collections are an excuse to create clothing for himself. As well as his growing fanbase who fawn over his designs for Moschino as well as those die-hard Jeremy Scott street style fans alike. There isn't a point where the collection starts to lose focus and while menswear enthusiasts will probably point out there's not enough content for them I did love this collection in its entirety. It didn't feel like I was sitting through a marathon movie or that the ideas were not thoroughly explored.     




Despite the fact that the cut, thick eyeshadow and brightly coloured tights paired with Mary Janes was all very 1960s inspired, there were modern twists or total subversion on this idea of childhood nostalgia. The technicolour striped two-piece and balloon dress created in that same synthetic material with plastic sheen wouldn't have survived several decades even if they were properly stored and lovingly cared for. So it's nice to see these pieces created for today's consumer market especially those girls (myself included) who love to wear vintage, thrifted and designer pieces in the same outfit. It would have been totally killer to make some amazing gogo boots from the same PVC material I mentioned earlier but it seems like Scott has made a lifelong commitment to flats. It's a shame really, with a little more investment in footwear aside from his trademark sneakers he could be a roaring hit. But I suppose that dimension of designing is explored through his Moschino collections rather than his own brand, which is a bit of a shame really. 




What's always annoyed me about Jeremy Scott is how easily his designs could be pinned to a reference. Last season it was Shrek and although delightfully playful the fruits of his labor did not bear a great deal of originality. Remarkably these designs look like they could well have been from the same collection as last season's counterparts. However, my feelings about both of these collections could not be more different. Scott has become notorious for ripping off artists (see Jim Phillips / Santa Cruz Skateboards debacle of 2013) which was only resolved through lawyers and did not see a direct apology. Not to mention collections inspired by some of his own childhood toys specifically My Pet Monster. So it begs the question how someone who blatantly disrespects their peers and other artists got to where they were today. Or indeed continue to reap the benefits of plagiarism and clothing which can be so closely connected with popular culture. Perhaps it is for this very reason that Scott continues to resonate with young fans and fashion bloggers but I remain apprehensive. 




So what to do when you find yourself between a rock and a hard place/ wary of a problematic designer but love their designs? The only sensible solution I've been able to come up with is to rip off the rip off artist in a manner of speaking. While I highly doubt I'll find any of these gloriously bright designs churned out by warehouse designers for dirt cheap what I can replicate is the beauty looks. I am definitely not a beauty blogger and certainly those who know would probably be repelled by my use of even the most common brushes and creams but I could also use this to my advantage. Without a good technical ability I can approach things anew and try out crazy things like lip liner as eyeliner/ shadow etc. Of course this example was something I had already seen before but I think with a little bit of experimentation and some cheap dollar store makeup almost anything is possible. As for the clothes themselves it's easy to get some coloured tights on sites like eBay especially if you are petite and can fit into kid size clothing. Likewise with the crazy colour palettes and lack of sexualisation of the female body save for the short skirts. 





While it seems like I focused on the negatives for the larger part of this review, make no mistake when I say I love each and everyone of these outfits. I would love nothing more than to be dressed head to toe in any of these outfits and feel plush faux fur draped across my shoulders. I'm even tempted to cut my hair shorter and experiment with products such as hair crayons for that temporary splash of colour. It's just that Jeremy Scott is not my favourite person in the fashion industry and I have trouble reconciling the art with the identity of the artist. It would be easy for me to try and glaze over past incidents but in the words of Bill Cunningham, all you have at the end of your day is your integrity. Without that, you have nothing. I feel compelled to speak my mind about his designs and write these entries as part catalog of outfits, part open letter to the designer and blogosphere. Normally everyone is really nice on here but I feel like in the fast-paced world of Instagram not everyone is willing to address these issues of intellectual property which is poorly defined within the fashion industry. Was I being too harsh or did I hit the nail on the head?




Photos by Stefano Massè for Indigitalimages.com

4 comments:

  1. You don't sound cynical at all. You are basically saying what everyone else is afraid to about Jeremy Scott! I agree with you 100% and although I loved his collab with Miley, it still wasn't his own original ideas.

    That being said, I am crazy, stupid, wow oh my gosh, I can't get enough, in love with this collection. The mix of 1960s psychedelic, creepy clown, and Clueless finds are SPOT ON! And Oh My God: I have to try doing my eyeshadow like this.

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    1. omg thank you so much Tessa, it's really comforting to know that I can speak my mind and that they aren't an exaggeration, partly because so many other famous bloggers like the Beckerman twins and even Susie Bubble attend his collections like it's the greatest thing ever!

      If anyone else ripped off ideas like JS does they'd be fired in an instant! It's so frustrasting because like, he's an artist, and should have original ideas but ugh I digress...// end rant

      The eyeshadow and hair were totally on fleek though and I have this same crazed obsession with the clothes and their clown-like aesthetic (despite their problematic creator)

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  2. omg... i have the perfect dress to customise into a knockoff of this collection... i feel like i don'y really have the right skills to do what i want to it yet.. but i just love the idea of us wearing some diy knocks offs of this.. . uuuughghgheghghgh first i need to make this dress happen. grrr

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    1. OMG YES DO IT ugh I know have a whole new reason to start thrifting again, find amazing doppleganger pieces from all my fave collections from FW15!!

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