Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Fendi Spring 2015

All throughout viewing this entire collection- from shoes to accessories and of course those impeccably designed clothes I kept muttering 'ahh' and 'wow'. While I pride myself on coming up with something intellectual in response to the many fashion collections I review I was left speechless on this one. I knew instantly that I was completely obsessed with it although it lacked the extravagant set design we've seen in recent weeks during the haute couture shows. There's something to be said for letting the clothes be the centre of attention and allowing the audience to sit in quiet anticipation before half a year's worth of work is unveiled unto the public. This collection highlighted a lot of things I already love, from blue eyeshadow to prints and patterns I was hooked but unexpectedly delighted by crocodile skin bangles in pastel colours along with what could be this season's most coveted range of bags.

I've been fawning over the Fendi Bag Bugs for what feels like an eternity now, ever since London blogger Sussie Bubble wrote about them. Unfortunately since Fendi prides itself on its luxury reputation they still insist on creating their products from mink and real fur. I don't really have any opposition to leather goods since the cattle industry serves multiple purposes but fur feels like a different kettle of fish. All of the knock-offs I saw on eBay have also followed suit and created their own bag charms from mink and fox fur tinkering very little with the true Bag Bug design. It kind of makes my skin crawl that unless I was some big shot celebrity or asked for a custom order (which they may still turn down) it's unlikely that big businesses like these will even bat an eyelid when questioned about the ethics of their practice. 

It seems like only yesterday that gladiator sandals lined every fashion store in every mall across the country and they were everyone's go to shoe. Of course when I think back to their peak popularity it was actually 2008 and that was a staggering seven years ago. Yep believe it or not there was a time when before everyone was wearing thick holographic platform sandals at the club scene. I dunno what happened you guys, I had my whole life ahead of me but now all of a sudden I'm an adult that still knows next to nothing about taxes and mortgage repayments. Thankfully what has changed is the chunky strappy design which has been traded in for shiny and sophisticated. Maybe I should have called myself Style Magpie or something since it seems like I'm a sucker for anything metallic and just a little bit extravagant but I doubt I'm the only one wishing for a pair of these babies.

Balenciaga were onto a winner with their cracked tops catering to the tastes of those eccentric fashion bloggers and minimalists alike. What's attractive to me is the introduction of texture into everyday style, as well as the evocation of something such as a derelict building or patchy wall. In a very similar way the slashed leather tops carry that same playfulness along with a very clever way to make leather wearable in warmer climates. The incisions are straight and somewhat clinical in their appearance, which when coupled with their strategic placement on the garments diminishes their sensuality. There's nothing overtly sexy about these pieces and I don't feel like these characters are dressing in order to gain the approval of men. They exist as celestial beings content with their own sense of style and colour coordinated outfits which basically I'm all about.

Despite tagging along on many of my mother's shopping trips throughout my childhood and well into adolescence I was never instilled with the same love for handbags. Perhaps that's because many of the bags my mother chose were boxy and utilitarian in design rather than objects of beauty to proudly show off and parade on one's arm. I myself still prefer to use a backpack for uni being forced to carry heavy textbooks loaded with diagrams for Biology on top of a rather bulky laptop. I don't envy the girls with their MacBook Airs tucked away in their Longchamp bags right next to their vitamin water or whatever. It's difficult to balance the purpose a bag with its design and personalize the experience which is why Fendi have really tackled all these criterion all at once. A bag charm can instantly add charm and character to even the most beat up and well-worn bags, or if it's extra space you need then the addition of the Mini bags will be right up your alley.

The other major talking point for this collection was the appearance of those leather embellished hair ties delighting those lucky enough to sit in the front row. It's easy to become caught up in the fantasy of viewing a runway presentation from the photographers gallery when in actuality you're reading Style.com in your room. Plus or minus a bag of opened Doritos and a couple of pizza boxes thrown in for good measure. But of course these clothes do not exist in a dimension outside the earthly plain of existence. They can and should be seen from the side, the back as well as the front in order to fully appreciate both the time and effort designers have expended during their creation. These different dimensions are best highlighted in street style photography but their increasing importance is conveyed in the 'details' pictures of each outfit. 

Abstract patterns and designs were also a feature for the Spring 2015 presentation reinforcing this growing connection of art with fashion. Of course I say this as someone with a science background who stopped doing art in high school as early as possible in order to pursue maths, literature, language and chemistry. While I could never afford anything like that (at least in this lifetime) it does inspire me to create my own diy painted leather jacket. Depending on your ability you could create something akin to Claire Barrow's wonderful leather creations or a Norelle Rheingold masterpiece. I'm going to have to try this myself this year before the days become too short and there's not enough time to dry but I'm content to marvel at the works of others, at least for now.

What would've been really good to understand when learning how to sew in freshman year was how panels work to create a three-dimensional wearable structure. I have a lot of respect for the women who are able to create their own sewing patterns as the result of having spent so many hours hunched over a machine or just a concept of what goes where in their head. So not only am I really bad at making my own clothes were it not for the easy to read and step by step guide of sewing patterns from the thrift store I am a pretty bad structural geologist. Luckily I'll be specialising in palaeontology this year but I cannot stress how much easier life would be for me if I could think in three-dimensions. If I had those sorts of skills I would be brave enough to tackle making my own block-tacular statement shirt from sheer and chock full of rectangles. Imitating the skirts would be a little easier, with a simple snip to a pre-existing skirt. If you're in middle school and you have mean teachers they may call you a fire hazard or something similar.

The presentation culminated in a flurry of fur and feathers in fair floss pastel tones. Unlike many of the other fashion houses who have made the brave decision to incorporate feathers as part of their collection Fendi have done things a little differently. The feathers were clipped and left resembling the fletchings on an arrow rather than the fluffy down of marabou. It removed this soft and fluffy notion of women wrapped in cotton wool and replaced it with the vision of cool and sophisticated Amazonian warriors. They also weren't used to hide the westernised view of the female figure and instead enhanced the bust and hips were dresses were cinched at the waist with a belt. It was interesting to see something as unconventional as feathers be treated as a very ordinary raw material and manipulated in a way we are more used to seeing. However, I doubt that we will see this trickle down into the high street from a lack of demand as well as tricky techniques.  

Photos 1-56 shot by Yanni Vlamos for Indigitalimages.com, photos 57- 59 by Paolo Musa (Dazed Digital).

1 comment:

  1. I love the way you write! xx