While frantically scouring the Internet for any trace of the Ammerman Schlösberg Fall 2015 collection I thought I'd write about their previous collection first. There's plenty of photos of the quirky and somewhat sinister Fall collection up on Instagram from various big name fashion bloggers and magazines for anyone that's interested. However, I wanted to introduce the collection that grabbed our attention approximately six months ago and really catapulted Ammerman Schlösberg's reputation. I'm actually a bit embarrassed I hadn't written about this Schlösber's beforehand since I unwittingly included some images in a moodboard a few weeks ago but couldn't put my finger on the source. Of course I wouldn't dream of making the same mistake again but will try my best to make amends now. Visually this collection was so strong and unlike any other. It referenced so many things which I and many other people who read Style Rookie would recognize immediately. Whether it be the red drapes reminiscent of David Lynch's Twin Peaks, the colour red used continuously throughout the collection reminding us of Lolita or even the pentagram hanging in the background suggesting the allure of witchcraft.
If you've been reading my blog for a several years now you will know that I am not usually interested in collections which are overtly sexy. I reject the very notion that personal style should be anything other than a medium through which one expresses one's self and should not be used to impress someone else. It would be ludicrous indeed if I tried to ignore the obvious sex appeal of this collection, but what I find more interesting is how it is used in combination with the aforementioned references. Both Laura Palmer and Dolores Haze find themselves in an extraordinary set of circumstances, manipulated by older men but both have crept into fictional folklore. OK they are not the stuff of archetypal literary heroines that scholars fawn over but the sheer volume of work that they have inspired is worthy of recognition.
Not content with just just over ten images I wanted to showcase the different types of presentation a single collection might undergo. Hence this post is subdivided between images sourced from the Opening Ceremony Blog and the official lookbook. What I really wanted to do was find some grainy images from when it was first unveiled at fashion week but, beggars can't be choosers. These different locations allowed for the illumination of different themes which co-exist within the collection. For example, in front of a backdrop of delicious red velvet curtains the plaid seemed more reminiscent of the costumes from Twin Peaks. Not only that but the patent leather platform sandals seemed larger than life but were only shown in white, whereas in the studio photo shoot both red and white variations were used. It's the little things and attention to detail that seems most impressive, giving into consideration how hectic life can be in anticipation of fashion week.
The other somewhat surprising motif was the kawaii undertones of the collection. Despite both designers Elizabeth Ammerman and Eric Schlösberg having been trained at European institutes (Elizabeth went to Pratt, Schlösberg went to Parsons but was subsequently kicked out) their creations lend themselves to the Harajuku subculture originating from Japan. Perhaps it's the nature of their very aesthetic, previously described as 'like tooth decay from eating too much candy, sugary sweet with a hint of sadomasochism.' Over several seasons and successful showings at New York Fashion Week the designer duo have stayed true to their roots and merely refined their ideas over the years. It is undoubtedly a reflection and amalgamation of their personal style and influences translated into indulgently sweet yet irreverently dark creations. In order to generate something special you have to be unique and these two have done just that, with their work propelling them to the top of fashion pop cult status.
Photos 1-12 via Opening Ceremony Blog, photos 13- 23 from Ammerman Schlösberg website