Thursday, March 13, 2014

Saint Laurent Spring 2013

The Saint Laurent collection of Spring 2013 came to my attention when it was described by Monica of Quaintrelle as the wardrobe of cowboy sorceress. I so badly want that to become the next underground subculture; words cannot describe how badly I wish this would take off in all the major cities. But that's probably because it is so different and far removed from the digital designs of Mary Katrantzou and a legion of copy cats as well as holographic designs. That's not to say I don't love the futuristic designs of the past few years, but minimalism has always been a mysterious and untameable beast I am convinced I can never master in terms of my own aesthetic. The presentation was jam packed with dreamy  black sheer dresses hidden under large cowboy hats and fringed suede.

I've never been big on cowboy themed fashion with the exception of occasional glances at pink cowboy boots on Etsy, but this feeling is different. This is collection represents the mature and distances itself from a childish philosophy of playing dress-ups as an adult. It demands a certain discipline- a world without comfy cotton t-shirts and sweaters replaced with the allure of black sheer, large coats and suede. While I have fallen in love with the fantasy of it as an idea I can never pry myself away from colour and my all important wardrobe staples such as woolen tartan pants, printed socks and strange shoes. This largely has to do with suburbia being unwelcoming to anything other than sweatpants (more like give-up-on-life pants!) and a pair of jeans. 

In comparison the understated glamor of Saint Laurent makes everything sold by by Spanish Moss seem terribly ordinary and downright boring. Or maybe I just think they treat their customers with utter contempt and am totally unapologetic about a thorny relationship. Again this has to do with the sequined dresses, luxurious floor length gowns and coats overshadowing typical vintage clothing and injecting glamor into an era already steeped in romanticism. What Mills & Boons novels forgot to mention was the killer outfits featuring deep v-necks, Mary Jane high heels and matching attitudes of sultry Western heroines. Before of course they were ceremoniously undressed by the stable boy/ farm hand/ sensitive stranger next door but I digress.
Splashes of colour were used sparingly with earthy tones used to suggest a close link between nature and the lives lead by women living on wide open prairie lands. I believe the leading fashion houses sell their clothes based on three things. 1.) Their reputation, 2.) how well the clothes are made including the materials used and 3.) the ability to create a compelling narrative with their clothing. The first and second are key to a successful business in any field be it technology or cosmetics. But the story telling aspect comes to life like no other industry on runways with hair and makeup instrumental in creating something with a life of its own. Collectively, the clothes and outfits are at their strongest which is why I think runway shows are viewed as magical portals giving audiences rare insight into a universe all of their own.

For the fashion conscientious reader envisioning links between runway shows to texts I'd imagine Saint Laurent best represents the wardrobe of the villainous Warden from Holes. If she found the treasure of the dried up lake and bought a fabulous Western themed wardrobe ignoring the detainees in juvenile detention. I'm sure it would go lovely with her venom tainted nail polish but all those lovely clothes would probably detract from her deadly manicure. On the plus side sensible wide brimmed hats elevate any understated outfit of denim jeans and leather boots adding something special and chic. Again, this fashion is very different from what I would wear in day to day life but I think borrowing from runway trends in a small way is a big part of interpretation and how street style really gains substance. 

It's been a while since I've really given Saint Laurent any thought- I was obsessed with finding the perfect vintage piece online in my early days as a blogger but then I slowly drifted apart. My eyes have been opened again to the glamorous side of fashion which seems so romantic with the use of luxurious materials, ruffles and sequins. I've heard industry analysts often argue about the appearance of luxury designs in a recession and cautious consumer market with polarizing views of "this is exactly what we need!" and "are you out of your mind? why would someone buy this now!". But admittedly none of that matters, not to someone like me anyway who is more invested in the ideas expressed in runway shows and can't afford any of that stuff on a student budget anyway. 


  1. I cant take my eyes off this collection.

  2. Such American Horror Story: Coven feels here...