Sunday, February 2, 2014

Simone Rocha Fall 2011

If you've kept up with this blog and my runway reports for a while now you'll be familiar with Simone Rocha. What might surprise you is I haven't written about her earlier work because didn't photograph shows before 2012. What prompted me to delve into the designer label's early history was a photo from Tumblr of a thin wire crown. This sparked a sudden interest in how the rest of the collection would fit around the strange accessory. There was plenty of black in staple materials for cooler weather such as wool, leather and faux fur. All this was intersected by use of nude sheer and light tones of blush which would be the precursor to Rocha's larger Spring 2013 collection. I thought the rustic setting of the runway was a charming background to a collection featuring practical blazers and jackets, delicate sheer blouses and an eccentric use of fur.
Perspex heeled brogues are a feature of any Simone Rocha collection- inspired by the designers own personal style as a teenager growing up on the streets of London. Nude and black were chosen as sleek continuations of the clothes, but a rarer contrasting pair was made in fire engine red. One can only dream of finding such a pair of beautiful shoes. It's unfortunate that all the images I could find were shot front on, with no one paying attention to the trademark heels. You can be assured that they are cute little boots with a simple design but still able to generate a large hype, but all that seems rather speculative from these photos. I can now see why New York fashion photographer Bill Cunningham criticised the placement of the press gallery at the end of the runway. What we get is a flat, two-dimensional view of the clothing rather than using angles to capture the movement of the clothes and what they look like in profile.

After her success in 2012 and 2013, Simone Rocha has been embraced by the fashion industry and shows at London Fashion Week- but she has managed to retain some traits of an outsider. For someone on the periphery of any creative field, what they do is driven internally and is the purest representation of themselves. With dedication and a vision for the future, they eventually master the art of becoming the centre of their own universe. Rocha seems to have achieved that and glows with wisdom beyond her years, designing clothes for the women most close to her in everyday life, including her friends, family and those who work for her. Her silhouettes are instantly recognizable including suit jackets and dresses alike, the perspex heeled brogue remains firmly within the Rocha universe and each palette seems to continue some sort of dreamy narrative.

*All photos via

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