Friday, January 25, 2013

Meadham Kirchhoff Spring 2013

With momentum and motivation I find myself covering and critiquing yet another Meadham Kirchhoff collection. It must be love, I must be a fan girl, I might possibly be mad. Whatever the case, there certainly was a change of pace from the grunge aesthetic and monstrously bright makeup of other collections instead looking to the past for inspiration. In particular I recognise embroidered pantaloons, corset tied busts and a nod to the style and fashion of 18th century France to draw strength from. But having said that it is far different from Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel Resort 2013 collection shown off in front of a spectacular water fountain and proclaimed as a tribute to Versailles. Whereas Chanel opted for fake tattoos dotting the darling faces of their models, pastel tones and a lot more lace Meadham Kirchhoff have been unable to resist red yet again and focus on the fancy details of stockings, socks and adorned, embellished trousers.



Big shoulders haven't been in style for a few seasons now, but I do love the way Meadham Kirchhoff have taken on the challenge mincing it together with bustiers and thinner straps and a baroque golden aura. I really love the bows and how frequently they appear but in the different tones of the season- they could put my mother's gift wrapping to shame and believe me. My mother sure knows how to gift wrap a present and tie her bows. She must have been a scout master spirit guide or something in a past life. Anyway, it's also an accessible way to ease yourself into the trend by adding some bows to knee high socks and if you're really keen then ringlets in your hair. Be sure to add some sweet rosy cheeks and huge jeweled earrings together too to really capitalise on the trends set up in good stead. The ribbon motif was also used to spell out some simple phrases and stuff elevating sweatshirts to a whole other level and cotton t-shirts also wormed their way into this presentation; which did surprise me a little. Don't worry though- the likeness of Minnie Mouse sweetens the deal for those basic tees.




The peplum fad for Spring was emphasised in fluted and veiled corsets and spread across into wider and more structured hips on the bolder dresses and skirts. I remember when peplums seemed to reach a fever pitch and all I can think of when I see them is horses and horse-racing; but thankfully thick, glorious and luxurious materials with a more starchy texture and magnificent colours can be seen hidden under coloured lace and statement buttons. If I had to pick what the star of the show was, it would be those corsets though. It's far gone from the leather clad, dominatrix trend which I admire and also inspiration for hard-working art students. I sure know that if I was still doing design I would be all over this and working out how best to adapt it to my own hand of style and theme of design.

The patterns are every thing you expect from this dynamic duo and more, but they've also taken their collaborative brand in a more mature direction with a more minimalist approach to decorating their catwalk. There's a bit more variation with the matching shoes of the collection too, deviating between knee high boots and slinky mid heel shoes. Jewels and bows were the life of the party as far as footwear is concerned which by a plain description sounds boring, but there are other accessories too in the way of broad rimmed hats and long earrings that outrank even the classiest of family jewels. If family jewels are even real anymore and not just a euphemism for genitals.




I found it interesting to see the perception of the designers and creators of the collection. Much like when I reviewed any recorded vocals I had sung I would find myself cringing in a "IS THAT WHAT I REALLY SOUND LIKE!?" kind of way. If you go back to the original article, then you get my drift. When interviewed by contributors of Rookie Mag the designers and team that worked on this pieces seemed to dissect them so cruelly. Such as paraphrased lines of 'Oh I don't like this and this didn't turn out the way I wanted it' and that kind of tone. Of course being critical of mistakes and learning how to improve is important when art is concerned because it's about refining your craft but I found it interesting to see how someone at the top of their game felt a little repulsed by what they made when all things considered it was a beautiful thing of art on the whole. Very 'Marie Antoinette' busy with diamond cocktail necklaces, ribbons everywhere in the vain of a Sofia Coppola movie. But with a sharper focused camera.



As always, masters of style and creative geniuses Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff save the best for last and suddenly the motifs of the collection explode into life being a little more frantic and busy with detail. Normally I cringe at the very mention of catsuits thinking of poor awkward batman being harassed and whatnot and probably deliberating what to tell Robin the Boy Wonder and his young charge just what the heck all the innuendo means. But I love this- red and yellow was featured recently in an outfit post and with sunny weather on the way I am feeling all the good vibes these two bright colours transcend. Also the necklace shown off on this model: yowzah. It could compete with the illusive and rare "blue diamond", otherwise known as the heart of the sea and a vital plot device of the Titanic movie. Yellow is generally not my friend but here I could stand to be covered in it and roll around on hills of endless daisies at the risk of dying of acute hay fever and itchy eyes. That whole scenario would naturally kind of suck, but I would die happy you know? Being dressed in finery and adequately prepared for the afterlife. THIS IS WHY I'M MACABRE AND BAD AT MAKING FRIENDS!




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