Sunday, February 12, 2012

Jil Sander Navy Summer 2012

It seems my love for well-structured pieces with sharp colours and admiration of Alexa Chung's hair has lead me to the Jil Sander Navy Summer 2012 collection- there's a distinct withdrawn nature about it for a Summer collection and features materials I'm more accustomed to associate with Autumn/ Winter collection. Like any good collection for the new season whether that be Summer or Winter (depending on location of label) there are thick and chunky brogues as well as the use of mid-calf socks a trend that is becoming more evident and popular with the presentation of models for collections.

Elements of the Autumn and Winter collection are also apparent in the strong structured pleated skirt I've come to know from other collections such as J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall as well as the new Kenzo collection. I just love the bold design of the dress, including the inverted 'T' shape darts for the pleats of the skirt and the perfect red hemline lending the piece well to be used as something for colour blocking. The use of matching beige platform brogues with their own small red rubber also cleverly mimics the pattern of the skirt. I love the way navy and black is used in this collection as two interchangeable shades of the same ilk.

As well as strong structured dresses and skirts with pleats and collars abound, there's large outdoor coats used as drapery pieces with a contrasting softer side to them- I love the way they cloak the stick-thin models. It was interesting to see different shades of red, brown and navy used with other muted and neutral tones but the collection was very simplistic and minimalist in its approach. That's not necessarily a bad thing when it comes down to buying good quality clothing for all occasions but without the warmth and comfort of padding in a coat, what use are they for the Summer season other than something to wear at night? However unfair I may be, the use of the coats in combination with soft leather bags and chunky platform lace-ups does add an air of sophistication about the outfits and they are beautifully put together.

I love the metallic sheen about this soft pink/ dusty grey material and there is a lovely strong structure about it from the bust down which creates pleats, but I can't help but think the collar and what appears to be a zipper down the middle lets down the structure and material. For something of this colour and with the capped sleeves I expected something more refined and evening to wear- not collars and a small little dart down the middle. I think I'd prefer the skirt of the dress as its own separate piece and maybe a better look at the collar, although all the models chosen have shoulder length hair it's never good to have that interfere with the detail of the dresses and pieces shown for the collection.

I'm still in love with pleats as well as collars in contrasting collars for shirts so naturally this ensemble is my favourite of the collection- the shoes as well as matching black socks create this ambiguity of when one piece ends and the other begins and the continuation of black from the collar and bag is clever but very subtle. I'm not often a big fan of vertical stripes involving white and black but there's something very chic and understated about the blouse shown above, it can lend itself well to a number of outfits and has great versatility about it. The skirt is one of the few pieces I would seek to buy online apart from the shoes and coats- I don't have a lot of pink in my wardrobe and this soft shade could be worn with a sheer blouse and some killer heels for a night out but also looks sweet enough to be worn during the day.

The dramatic use of a red coat with an entirely black ensemble? Wonderful- I love the small pouch at the waist of the model, for those travel savvy it would make a great keeper for your important documents or simply if your out shopping and want somewhere to hold your necessary plastic credit cards. You can be assured when buying from a label like Jil Sander some of the highest quality leather will be used for the small bag, and if my eyes don't deceive me is that a ribbed romper suit worn by the model? The all too familiar conflict when styling outfits for collection as opposed to showing them piece by piece is that the finer details and aspects of something worn under a large coat can be hidden under a coat at the centre of attention of the piece.

I love the small and barely noticeable discomfort of the model when wearing this school boy inspired ensemble, although tailored for a woman's body, Jil Sandler were clever enough to include a bulkier and wider collar, black tie with tie clip and charm and even tailored shorts. I also know the perfect little satchel from Olympia Le-Tan to include with the white collar style of these clothes offset by the lovable but very dorky red brogues with white laces. They remind me of bowling shoes  but with a platform edge and they add a splash of colour to the otherwise bland and straight-forward outfit styled above.

Jil Sander is known for her minimalist design, neat and ribbon decorated hems and has been as described as delivering class with edge. As my taste matures and I seek more refined pieces and drawn back prints it's good to know a brand that focuses on chic refinement and simple design- I love the small black bow tie across the waist to soften the two striped bands along the hem. A vintage Chanel jacket wouldn't go astray with this ensemble either whether it's fake or not wouldn't really matter.

It seems that classic designs are finally growing on me with the black coat and patterned sheer skirt catching my eye with the dorky platforms in black- they just seem so comical in comparison to the skinny little pale legs of the model. Still, I love the pallet of colours and the square blocking print used on the skirt as well as the pleats; I can't get enough of pleated skirts and dresses and I'll probably wear them until they are well and truly out of style once more. I love the loose structure of both skirt and coat though, the tight and form-fitting has always been a personal nemesis of mine so I naturally favour the casual and flowing lines the fashion world is so eagerly addressing.

Get a load of that large big black bag, definitely not something you want to carry around when slumming but I quite like the large and rectangular structure in comparison to the small shoulder strap aesthetically. In the practical world this bag would never fly with me and I wouldn't dare look at it in a shop but the side profile shown with the draping coat and the smart platform shoes in black sort of brings it all together in this surreal world of spies and danger as well as travelling with few possessions.

The hero of this piece is the wet-look or "lame" and shiny metallic gold material of the skirt- can you imagine the type of havoc you could wreak at a formal occasion with the right camisole top and some vintage gloves? I don't own many fantastic looking tops in their own right but I'm sure Miu Miu or Prada will have a gorgeous shirt with Peter Pan Collar in magnificent detail to go with this skirt. It would be wonderful to be able to dress up like this everyday but my mother will scarcely let me wear my American Apparel skirt when I go out to the city with her. For someone as anti-social as myself, my dress sense or the clothes I long to wear really call for some amazing occasion of celebrating with friends.

My favourite of all the coats featured in the collection is the cheery red colour, able to breath life into a khaki and beige ensemble and brighten up anyone's gloomy day.
 I'd love to see what young Alexa Chung would do with such a piece in her wardrobe which isn't that hard to imagine considering the short shoulder length hair of all the models used for this collection. Perhaps on my holiday to Canada next year I'll strike it lucky and buy a gorgeous coat from a brand name store for a wonderful price and get to swank around town with my mother and her friends.

1 comment:

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