Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Jeremy Scott Spring 2015

Jeremy Scott made a triumphant return back to the catwalk delivering a collection saturated in psychedelic undertones and a whimsical prints and patterns. It was everything I could have wanted and more in time for Spring, when I have felt particularly dull or simply bored with what was in my wardrobe. Lately I've been busy selling clothes online but haven't put as much thought into what I would buy to replace those pieces! I think now I have an answer, or at least a comparative for whenever I next go thrift shopping. Although flaming skull and rockabilly motifs are more likely to appear in the men's section and I think I would have better luck trying to find bright pastel dresses and sugary sweet metallic skirts in the kid's section.

Jeremy Scott has reincarnated his trademark fluffy teddy bears sneakers into this season's hottest trend, fluffy sliders. While it may seem a strange idea they've become popular for those extra hot summer nights or a cute accessory by the pool! It started as a trend from Celine 2013, but some people love to hate this trend but it's become somewhat of a cult hit like the humble pair of Birkenstock sandals. I think it's somewhat endearing and feel personally thankful that I can now combine my love of fluffy teddy bears without needing to wear chunky sneakers. Wearing sneakers with something other than tracksuit pants seems weird, and it is in my personal opinion that tracksuit pants should only been worn when watching Seinfeld. And that is the only exception I am willing to make. The appropriate accessory for this look is a bowl of popcorn loosely tossed over your jumper and various candy bar wrappers next to you on the couch.

Amongst all of the vague 60s and 70s hippie dippy undertones is the sudden appearance of Shrek from the Dreamworks animated films of the same name, which first made his appearance back in 2001. I've watch most of the movies although I wouldn't say I am a huge fan or love the franchise ironically like some of my friends in their early twenties, Shrek is the main reason why I am blogging about this collection today. I saw those pieces featured on the Opening Ceremony blog and tried to hunt down the pieces but to no avail. And even though the pieces may seem to have the crappy, unofficial merchandise quality so prevalent in discount stores across the country- these pieces have stolen my heart. It's my weird ironic love for Shrek that let me access the strong graphics and rainbow floral dresses which opened and largely define the collection. So it's true what they say Shrek is love, Shrek is life.

Miley Cyrus made her fashion debut by lending a hand to the creation of the accessories for the show, and while they are cute and quirky and fit Jeremy Scott's eccentric vision she should not be supported in this industry due to her insistent racism.
Don't know what I'm talking about? Most recently she has come under fire for disrespecting Nicki Minaj by photoshopping her head onto the singer's body featured on the album work for Anaconda and wore a prosthetic butt while twerking on stage in Puerto Rico. What she did was hurtful because not only does it personally attack Nicki Minaj, but it insults every woman with that same body shape and has effectively reduced black women down to a stereotype. We are sick and tired of seeing skinny, blond girls constantly represented everywhere. 

Not only that, but they have so white privilege pouring out of every pore that the moment someone stands up and says "fuck skinny bitches"- they feel the need to respond to that and defend themselves. It's not enough that people like her are so heavily represented in the media, but the moment someone else announces themselves and takes ownership over their body type she has to degrade them. I don't like Miley, I have never liked Miley but you know what? I am genuinely disappointed that she did not prove me wrong, and that does not have any redeeming qualities. I would have happily been proven wrong, but this only proves my assumptions about her were right and she is a nasty piece of work. I hope Jeremy Scott does not collaborate with her in the future, I hope that no one from the fashion industry seeks to collaborate with her in the future. 

While I'm at it on the issue of racism and it's prevalence in the fashion industry. Hey Jeremy Scott, your "Natives Are Restless" t-shirt worn by by Brazilian model Mariana Santana has a cute font but the message on it, not so much. I included this photo because I really liked the fluffy texture of the pink skirt and the yellow floral motif had like a early 2000s, tacky Hawaiian shirt nostalgia to it but otherwise I would not have included it on this blog.
I'd hate to end this review on a sour note and so much negativity, but when I feel so strongly about a topic it's difficult to separate my emotions from my writing and remain objective. It sucks the fun out of fashion and honestly does impact the lives of ordinary people. Representation matters and although it sounds ineffectual when directed at the fashion industry and designers, we are beginning to see conscious thought and change as the response to the call for change.  

Monday, September 15, 2014

Rodarte Spring 2015

I hate when my blog becomes this stale, repetitive, lifeless entity consisting of reposted images from one point of perspective. What became really apparent to me when I listened to broadcasts and speakers from the Melbourne Writer's Festival is that to blog successfully, you have to experience things first hand and then you write about them. But I haven't been doing that, and I have rarely done that from the very beginning in the belief that my life was boring or not worth documenting when compared to other people. That my room was messy (and in all honesty it is) so I never took pride in decorating my bedroom because I never had people over or never wanted to take photos of it. I'm not quite ready or motivated enough to suddenly clean my room and make it pretty for the sake of what other people will think of me, but now that New York Fashion Week has come and gone I do feel regretful that I wasn't able to experience it first hand. 

For all of this week it feels like I've been asleep and waiting to wake up, but the times when I have been most motivated is when I've checked my Instagram feed (and to a lesser extent Tumblr dashboard) and been able to view all the videos and photos taken backstage for the event. Tavi Gevinson has returned to fashion week after being notably absent last year mainly because she now has an apartment with photographer and Rookie contributor Petra Collins situated in New York city. This magical fantasy world was created by sitcoms and movies. Sure it was a creative hub and a cultural locus but what makes it special to people from my generation, Gen Y is that we grew up with it in our houses and in our living rooms. I guess I wonder sometimes what my life would be like if I lived in a place where things happened like New York, rather than in suburban Australia.

It sounds like I'm complaining a lot and I am but I think from what limited information I have, Rodarte was the highlight of New York Fashion Week hands down. The sisters created a stunning array of mermaid inspired ballgown dresses complete with sequin embellishment and netted mesh in shades of aqua and sea green, as well as the most distinguished use of eyebrow piercings the industry has seen to date. It wasn't shocking in the way of Vivienne Westwood or say Betsey Johnson might employ, but a series of fake eyebrow piercings were used to exaggerate the brow line. It was a gamble but I think it payed off and everyone's taken to it and ordered their own fake eyebrow rings off etsy (I wish I was kidding but I am seriously considering this myself).

In keeping with the obscured nautical theme, the sisters behind Rodarte have also made thick utility jackets khaki and neutral shades like black and white. With their thick tan straps crossing over the body in all kinds of fantastic ways they kind of remind me of the Benny Gold X Jansport backpacks everyone seems to have. Or the kind of jacket you're supposed to wear on a fishing trip for all your bits and bobs. Minus the sad looking bucket hat and dingy. I must say it's rather refreshing after many seasons of the duffel coat dominating the university campus scene that maybe there may be an equal contender and cute alternative for the humble student who doesn't want to freeze to death. Also because women's pants are often made with miniature pockets in a ploy to get us to buy handbags and purses I take an immediate liking to any coat or jacket with deep pockets.

What's special to me about this Rodarte collection is a sense of nostalgia I get from the use of wool and mesh, used to evoke the spider web tights from 2008 collections. I became aware of them through reading Tavi's blog The Style Rookie and I suppose it's been such a big influence that it's one of those things that stays with me. But unlike their 2008 collection these materials were integral in the design of those gorgeous dresses and is almost reminiscent of fishing nets, tangled in pastel coloured flowers and fathers from sea birds. And while that analogy might be welcome to any vegan or vegetarians out there, I think this evocation is meant to be poetic and romantic echoing Samuel Taylor Coleridge's 'Rime of the Ancient Mariner'

*All images via