Friday, February 27, 2015

Coach Fall 2015

Over the span of two seasons Coach have managed to transcend their reputation as a basic, mall queen, Abercrombie & Fitchesque clone. I know that owning a Coach handbag is a big deal if you're from North America but in Australia the brand seems to have hardly made waves, save for the last two runway collections. In a kind of metamorphosis they have since become one of the must-see events at New York Fashion Week. Last season the crowds were treated to a collection of sugary sweet fur-trimmed coats, taking everyone by surprise but begging the question could they keep it up? As it turns out we need not have worried since their 2015 Fall collection was just as spectacular but for a variety of different reasons. Muted tones featured heavily with a greater emphasis on texture and materials such as leather and shearling. These were balanced by badass babe vibes provided by bandannas and chic handbags and tasseled loafers. The collection was composed of the perfect staple jackets for Winter, in contrast to the previous which was perhaps canvasing the brand's new and exciting alternate persona.
The collection featured an ensemble cast of waifish girls swaddled in shearling coats, each outfit being carefully composed and well articulated. This combined with the art direction and photographed landscape sitting behind the models was heavily reminiscent of previous collections from Rodarte. Unlike Rodarte however, there is a distinct absence of dresses worthy of the red carpet which has been instead replaced by real world grit and chic sweaters. I was also reminded of Balenciaga mimicking the same crisp sense of presentation and especially with those buckled ankle boots. Rather than representing a stereotype of exaggeration of American street style, Coach has adopted to refine the archetype and brought back a sense of class and elegance. Of course this is easily achieved when a whole army of stylists, makeup artists and designers worked and contributed to the sum effect of this look but it's a nice ideal to hang on to. I'll definitely try to keep this collection in mind during the cooler months when comfort slowly begins to overtake style in terms of priorities and precedence. 

Normally I like to make comparisons with some sort of pop culture referencing when reviewing a collection but it's a bit more difficult to put my finger on a definite trace or source. Obviously this was made by Americans for the consumption of Americans and those who idolize the land of the free but I like to think that things are a bit more complex than that. While I would describe this look as lumberjack chic it doesn't have the same lucid aesthetic as that of Twin Peaks and less knitwear and plaid skirts than the aforementioned reference. Instead it is a little more rough, rugged and practical and yet the sling bags, eyeshadow and layering of sheer does not make the masculine undertones overwhelming. For one thing the silhouette of many of the outfits is quite feminine with the legs visible and yet the coats are rather bulky and engulf the figure. The boots are thick and more like snow boots which New Yorkers would have needed in the event of a serious snowstorm (the one which never hit). 

Although black leather jackets are somewhat of a cult staple amongst the Tumblr tribe I've noticed that fashion editors and bloggers alike seldom incorporate these as part of their outfits. I've put this down to the simple reason that the fashion elite like to cycle through the latest trends and the antithesis of that would be a timeless piece like a leather jacket. Arty creative types will have discovered that they can update and customise their own jackets with pins, patches and for a select few, fabric paint. So really since they're not an identifiable piece of clothing and in a way they're non-unique these two fashion tribes (or classes if you will) have been split right down the middle. I don't really know how to feel about this rationalization since I am constantly trying to figure out where I am and where I sit within the blogosphere hierarchy but obviously I am trying to aim for bigger and better things. The same could be said for large pendleton and woolen coats. I think since Coach have produced a series of jackets which are minimalist in design but don't compromise warmth, both parties can be appeased and may embrace this collection with equal affection but we'll have to wait and see. 


Over the last couple of years the biggest changes to my personal style and what interests me is undoubtedly texture. During Winter and the Fall my imagination can run rampant and experiment with different layers in order to create a striking silhouette. Obviously during Summer resources are a bit limited and it makes sense to wear colourful sunglasses or accessories in order to make up for it. What caught me off guard was the use of sheer skirts worn over charcoal grey skirts with those heavy coats or bandana printed sweaters. I've become somewhat conditioned to Simone Rocha's use of sheer which remains spectacular and inventive time and time again but I was pleasantly surprised with how Coach used it in their Fall collection. With a greater emphasise on warm practical coats on the top half, the bottom half was relatively free to be dressed up in a number of different ways, whether that be with a pair of plain leather pants or pleated skirts.  



With last season's coats seen on the likes of fashion royalty such as Susie Bubble there is no doubt in my mind that celebrities and bloggers alike will look to this season's Coach for all their street style needs. Although having said that there are still plenty of shows to see in fashion week and the UK brand Shrimps may give Coach a run for their money in terms of popularity. Either way I can't wait to see how bloggers choose to style these pieces and combat the cold! What I look for in a runway collection is a sense of cohesion as well as story-telling and they have done just that. There was also particular attention to the details whether it be the silver charms hanging from chain belts or accessories pinned to a leather jacket. Certain elements within this collection will easily translate down the hierarchy of consumerism and within a matter of months I expect to see the market flooded with knock-offs of various quality and price ranges. For the thrifty and creative types they will also be able to fashion their own DIY pieces using whatever they have available to them. 



First photo via, all other photos from Trend Council

Thursday, February 26, 2015

Comical






Wearing: Di$count Universe top, Romance Was Born skirt, Nicholas Kirkwood shoes and earrings from etsy (mamoru).

I think this is the closest I'll ever be in terms of becoming the Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. Minus the snapbacks because I don't really wear hats that much and fanny packs for obvious reasons. When I first became interested in personal style and fashion blogging at about the age of fourteen or so I used to love looking at clothes from the 80s. The use of colours and archaic materials was unlike anything else I saw represented in popular media or commercially available at the time. It wasn't something that stuck though but there's definitely some elements of that magical era in this outfit. Everything in this outfit was made within the last five or so years but when worn together there is an obviously retro connection between each piece. For instance the rose and stripe design on my shoes is very Avant Garde, but they're Nicholas Kirkwood and therefore ~high fashion~. My shirt could be from a different dimension altogether though and the best part is it GLOWS IN THE DARK.

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Ammerman Schlösberg Spring 2015




While frantically scouring the Internet for any trace of the Ammerman Schlösberg Fall 2015 collection I thought I'd write about their previous collection first. There's plenty of photos of the quirky and somewhat sinister Fall collection up on Instagram from various big name fashion bloggers and magazines for anyone that's interested. However, I wanted to introduce the collection that grabbed our attention approximately six months ago and really catapulted Ammerman Schlösberg's reputation. I'm actually a bit embarrassed I hadn't written about this Schlösber's beforehand since I unwittingly included some images in a moodboard a few weeks ago but couldn't put my finger on the source. Of course I wouldn't dream of making the same mistake again but will try my best to make amends now. Visually this collection was so strong and unlike any other. It referenced so many things which I and many other people who read Style Rookie would recognize immediately. Whether it be the red drapes reminiscent of David Lynch's Twin Peaks, the colour red used continuously throughout the collection reminding us of Lolita or even the pentagram hanging in the background suggesting the allure of witchcraft.


If you've been reading my blog for a several years now you will know that I am not usually interested in collections which are overtly sexy. I reject the very notion that personal style should be anything other than a medium through which one expresses one's self and should not be used to impress someone else. It would be ludicrous indeed if I tried to ignore the obvious sex appeal of this collection, but what I find more interesting is how it is used in combination with the aforementioned references. Both Laura Palmer and Dolores Haze find themselves in an extraordinary set of circumstances, manipulated by older men but both have crept into fictional folklore. OK they are not the stuff of archetypal literary heroines that scholars fawn over but the sheer volume of work that they have inspired is worthy of recognition.   




Not content with just just over ten images I wanted to showcase the different types of presentation a single collection might undergo. Hence this post is subdivided between images sourced from the Opening Ceremony Blog and the official lookbook. What I really wanted to do was find some grainy images from when it was first unveiled at fashion week but, beggars can't be choosers. These different locations allowed for the illumination of different themes which co-exist within the collection. For example, in front of a backdrop of delicious red velvet curtains the plaid seemed more reminiscent of the costumes from Twin Peaks. Not only that but the patent leather platform sandals seemed larger than life but were only shown in white, whereas in the studio photo shoot both red and white variations were used. It's the little things and attention to detail that seems most impressive, giving into consideration how hectic life can be in anticipation of fashion week.  



The other somewhat surprising motif was the kawaii undertones of the collection. Despite both designers Elizabeth Ammerman and Eric Schlösberg having been trained at European institutes (Elizabeth went to Pratt, Schlösberg went to Parsons but was subsequently kicked out) their creations lend themselves to the Harajuku subculture originating from Japan. Perhaps it's the nature of their very aesthetic, previously described as 'like tooth decay from eating too much candy, sugary sweet with a hint of sadomasochism.' Over several seasons and successful showings at New York Fashion Week the designer duo have stayed true to their roots and merely refined their ideas over the years. It is undoubtedly a reflection and amalgamation of their personal style and influences translated into indulgently sweet yet irreverently dark creations. In order to generate something special you have to be unique and these two have done just that, with their work propelling them to the top of fashion pop cult status.




Photos 1-12 via Opening Ceremony Blog, photos 13- 23 from Ammerman Schlösberg website