Thursday, April 16, 2015

Miu Miu Fall 2015

Power clashing is a concept which baffles and terrifies the general public and even those with a knowledge of its concept. Put simply it is wearing clothes with patterns which don't go together. Urban Dictionary defines it as: "Combining clothing items that according to style etiquette do not go together" and while I would say wearing an entire denim ensemble like Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake at the 2001 American Music Awards (you're welcome) it does not follow style "etiquette" it is not a form of power clashing. Quite the opposite, it's like POWER COMBINATION that is so in your face and wow Justin was the hat really necessary? Anyway, traditionally fashion tribes have sneered at power clashing as a concept although some of my favorite bloggers who had non-traditional beginnings within the industry was able to master this tricky beast. I for one love it but it is not for everyone. Miuccia Prada has shone a light on perhaps one of the most mystifying trends of the past decade combined with office wear and secretary chic in the style of the 60s. 

I loved exploring this collection in its entirety and found myself totally engrossed in it- normally the clothes are what grabs me or the models are made up in a certain way that I find fascinating but the holy trinity of shoes, bags and clothes were equally impressive. Of course I can't forget to mention the enamel daisy earrings, necklaces and rhinestone earrings but they're not the show-stopping pieces but something that adds value rather than detracting from the overall beauty. Often a necklace or other piece of statement jewelry is in itself a thing of beauty but does not specifically enhance the mood or atmosphere of a collection. Vibrant enamel earrings in floral shapes normally brings to mind the spirit of the sixties and iconic models like Twiggy. While there wasn't a single model sporting the same doe eyes and signature do some of the tweed coats and fire engine red heels could easily be molded within her image. Instead references were slightly obscured behind a mixed message of flashing patterns and a variety of textures.   

What seems most attractive about this particular collection to me, as a student, still living with my parents is how accessible it is to a wide variety of girls. The wonderful thing about designer's inspired by vintage clothing is that they are therefore available in vintage stores and charity shops right around the country simply waiting for a new lease on life. I know it's not the same as buying the designer but for a brand as big as Miu Miu it's highly unlikely it will be unable to continue due to a lack of money. Plus since the majority of girls I know who fangirl over the brand are about my age and lacking disposable income we can be forgiven for being a little thrifty here and there. Fair Isle Knit sweaters were incredibly popular two or three years ago (and I was so sick and tired of the design) but there were definitely not as many long sleeve dresses. For the super creative ladies out there, you could probably create your own dress with ruffles and embellishments in a suitably cute print or blouse under all kinds of interesting circumstances. 

Tweed and snakeskin were finally brought together after years of separation and... I can't say I'm at all convinced they make an adorable couple. Given that neither material is used in excess in commercial ventures I think seeing one or the other alone is enough to fry anyone's brain. That said I really liked the tweed colorways and thought each was very well suited to its respective outfit but the snakeskin ruffled peplum did kind of fill me with a kind of fear. Perhaps I am more wary of snakes than I am willing to admit but you do have to admit that using that material with that silhouette is a bit worrisome. Still, I refuse to believe I am the only one who has paranoid thoughts about their accessories coming alive and attacking them at 2am. Or that I'm the only one who gives certain character traits to their items of clothing and creates imaginary emotional ties with them. The very reason we wear certain clothes aside from practicality is to channel a certain vibe or enhance a certain mood- the psychological applications of a great pair of shoes or killer red lipstick are all very real. So why not give the close themselves personality, character and charisma?

I thought I was familiar with the Miu Miu/ Prada aesthetic and that nothing Miuccia did would surprise me but how wrong I was. The 1970s was the apparent and dominant trend for Fall 2015 but as always I was more interested in the standalone designers who are content to march to the beat of their own drum. These designers have such influence because we treat them as individuals with a creative vision and as people who are able to articulate those ideas. Indeed a runway show can be over in the figurative blink of an eye but in such a short amount of time, those who are able to master it can leave a lasting impact. While I don't see myself replicating this collection in the near future I think that knowing that many women have the capacity to create outfits in the same style is somewhat comforting. It's actually more exciting to see a collection in an embodiment around me, in real life or as a participant of the online community after the final presentation. It is these fans and their interpretation of what was put before them that gives these designers strength. 

Like Prada's Fall 2015 collection the shoes were another big talking point, sharing a similar color palette as well as features such as miniature and demure silver buckles. Miu Miu's heels took on a more typical design of the 1960s with chunky heeled wedges and pointed high heels sending the media into a frenzy. While the audience wasn't perhaps as enthralled with the designs as compared to Prada (break the Internet) I think the same kind of girls experienced a similar type of infatuation. The silhouette and design of the shoes, with a particular emphasis on the shape of the heel itself seems key to the success of both the Miu Miu and Prada runways. No longer is a straight rectangular heel considered the cutting edge of fashion and the entire industry is experiencing a kind of renaissance in terms of collaboration and design. Designers like Nicholas Kirkwood who collaborate with multiple designers each season to create an iconic shoe and other such as Dior and Brian Atwood experimenting and trying to outdo each other. The result is an incredible selection for the consumer market and bloggers such as myself torn between new and innovative designs or old loyalties. 

Something which totally caught me off guard was just how much I enjoyed the handbags from this collection. Miu Miu are synonymous for creating a ruched texture in their leather goods and handbags but it's never resonated with me. That's not to say I didn't find it visually interesting but very rarely do I find myself itching to buy a handbag for the very simple reason that I have so few places to show them off. This is compounded by the fact that I actually prefer to use a backpack especially when traveling to and from my university campus via public transport. While I'd love to splurge on a gorgeous handbag I've never felt that it was a priority or even necessary until I saw some of the colorways Miu Miu had at their Fall 2015 show. Leopard print was transformed from this strange somewhat ironically used print to cool and Avant Garde. I loved the big totes, bowling bags and interweaving between leather handle and chunky plastic chains which acted as a vehicle for even more color variations.

The addition of chunky costume jewelry pieces (which of course in a show like this would all have to be authentic and not just rhinestones) reinforced this notion that clashing can be just as beautiful as a perfectly coordinated ensemble. While some of my favorite looks did have earrings that matched the main colors of the coat, the strength of this collection as a whole lies in the crazy and wild pattern combinations. It removes the financial stress of feeling like you have to own variations on the same design or sticking to a neutral color palette. This is particularly useful when you consider the amount of clip on daisy earrings which were produced from the 1960s. I'm completely in love with the idea of people rediscovering these pieces tucked away in vintage stores everywhere and being able to wear them in new and interesting ways. It's no secret that I love vintage clothing but what I really love is wearing vintage with designer and high street pieces in the vain of my favorite fashion bloggers. Wearing vintage or statement jewelry is still something I haven't really explored as yet, mainly because getting dressed in the mornings is hard and I haven't found a balance between clothing and accessories just yet.

Photos by Monica Feudi from Feudiguaineri.com